Quantcast
Channel: Oil Heating — Heating Help: The Wall
Viewing all 1338 articles
Browse latest View live
↧

Why cant I get these oil burners to fire when I bring 120v directly to primary Control?

October 19, 2017, 8:59 pm
$
0
0
Hi
Can someone tell me why I cant get a few Beckett AfG burners with Honeywell 7184B Primary control combination to fire when I bring 120 Volts directly to the white and blk.( Iam trying to change the blast tube and end cone using the same burner chassis for a different boiler) When I do this the steady green light comes on which means burner on while nothing is happening. I have tt jumped out. When I do this with Riello Burners and carlin Burners they fire right up. What am I missing? All the burners were working when I pulled them off boilers to change them to gas burners

I have attached some pics
Thanks
Joe
HHI Services


↧
Search

Adding a zone to Burnham V73 Oil Furnace boiler

October 20, 2017, 1:07 pm
$
0
0
Hello,

I have a Burnham V73 Oil Furnace boiler with three zones providing hydronic baseboard heat and domestic hot water with a superstor tank.
The two hydronic baseboard heat zones are connected with the following Honeywell devices.
- Honeywell R845A switching relay.
- Honeywell L8148A aquastat relay.

The domestic hot water zone is connected with a Taco SR501 switching relay.

As far as I can tell the Taco SR501 relay is wired into the Honeywell R845A switching relay with the DHW circulator feeding downstream from the circulator controlled by the Honeywell R845A.

***I am planning to add another hydronic baseboard heat zone and was wondering if I could use the (ZVC404-EXP-4) Taco 4 zone valve control module with priority expandable to replace my current setup? The baseboard for the far end of the new setup is already in place.
↧
↧

New radiator installed. Oil furnace shuts off after 5 minutes.

October 21, 2017, 9:04 am
$
0
0
Hi,

I just had a new hot water radiator installed. However, now the furnace won't stay on in the house for more than 5 minutes (the last time we used the heat was four months ago so I am not sure these things happened back to back.) After the furnace shuts off, the reset button won't work. I can shut the power off to the furnace and a few hours later get the furnace to come on again by flipping the power switch back on (the reset button doesn't work). At the time the furnace shuts off, the pipes coming out of the furnace are hot for about 4 feet (up until the first red "tap", then all the other pipes are cold). The furnace repair guy came and he says it is the fault of the radiator installer, that there is air in the system so the water won't circulate so it gets too hot and shuts down. We brought the radiator guy back and he re-bled every radiator with me beside him and there is no air in the radiators. So I called the furnace repair guy back and he said the furnace is fine, it comes on, he can feel the circulating pump vibrating, and it will work when I get the air out of the system and he wouldn't come back. The plumber guy says there is no air in the system.

Is it possible there is air in the system even after every radiator is bled a cup of water and no air comes out?

I googled my problem and read that if the furnace shuts off after 45 seconds it could be the flame rod detector or cad cell relay control (?) But mine stays on for 5 minutes so it seems like the flame is being detected.

Is there any other possibility that would explain why the radiator comes on, runs for five minutes and shuts off? We have 1/4 tank oil, the fuses and electric panel is fine, the tech said the furnace thermostat is fine (he was able to turn on the furnace with it) and I reset the thermostat upstairs and it will turn on the furnace.

Any advice would be really appreciated!
↧

Weil-Mccain Poor Performance

October 22, 2017, 9:08 am
$
0
0
Hello everyone -

This fall, I am house sitting for my grandmother, as she has moved into assisted living. The house is on the market currently. I know the house well as I grew up in the region, and in 2013 I helped her choose a boiler when the old one failed. It was a standard set up for a 1987 New England builder-grade house. New Yorker steel boiler, hydronic, baseboard, four zones, and a Beckett AFG. The only thing "luxurious" about the system was the HX Hostow indirect fired water tank. She wound up settling on a Weil-McLain WGO-4 installed with a Beckett AF and digital Hydrostatic. A Weil-McLain stainless hot water storage tank was also installed. We have always had an issue with a puff of exhaust on startup, going all the way back to 1991. We assumed it was a flue thing as the oil company always told us that it was normal. With the new boiler it's just as bad if not worse. A loud "BOOM" is heard on ignition, and one time I rushed downstairs to see smoke hanging in the basement like an old western saloon. Oil company continues to tell me this is normal -"cold flue" and all that. But the service man who came by recently didn't clean out the flue pipe or even change the oil filters - something that makes me question his judgement. "It's a new boiler so it doesn't really need it" he says. Sure.

I am concerned about air quality as I don't want to wake up to a puff back late one night, especially as the weather gets colder.

Some extra info that should help:

-Beckett AF with SenSys control system and pre-purge (solenoid valve over pump)
-Rear flue connection to a 45 degree run of pipe to the breaching with the chimney
-Barometric damper is set for horizontal run
-LOTS of soot and ash on floor under barometric damper
-LOTS of Kibbles and Bits found in firebox during the cleaning

I would like to start by increasing pre purge time on the burner, but I understand that this is a factory pre-set and requires some sort of fancy tool to change. I have also heard that a Carlin EZ-1 is the best burner for this set up. Any Thought? Photos are enclosed. Thanks!





↧

Specifics on two filters please!

October 25, 2017, 11:02 am
$
0
0
I've replaced my oil tank, and replacing the oil line to my forced hot air Becket Burner as well. I like the idea of two spin on filters, but all I see the the 10 micron spin on filters. It would seem that a 30 to 50 micron pre filter followed by the 10 micron filter would be ideal. Does this exist?

I suppose I could run a old-style canister pot style filter before the spin on.

What do others do? Suggestions?

Thanks!

↧
↧

Oil Boiler - Hot water system - Overflowing out of Steam Vent

October 26, 2017, 5:09 pm
$
0
0
Hardware:
A 2 pipe oil hot-water/steam heater system

Background:
I'm trying to get a previously abandoned house in working order. After dropping some considerable $ on servicing the system, replacing the 2 steam vents, and replacing the boiler lining, a new problem has arisen. When left alone, the boiler will fill up with water so much that the steam vent closest to the floor begins emitting water with or without the boiler on. The site gauge is full when this happens, obviously. The heating technician told me which valve to occasionally use to fill the boiler up, but I can't seem to have the boiler fill up and have hot water run throughout the house at the same time. What am I missing here? How do I have the hot water in the boiler flow throughout the house without it overflowing?

Attached are some pictures for reference





↧

Newbie here - To start or not to start the boiler?

October 28, 2017, 6:11 am
$
0
0
Hi all - new to the forums; seems like a great place to get some info.

I have a peerless WBV-03-110-WPC - Oil Fired Water Furnace. I opened it up yesterday to start the cleaning process and noticed my target wall was in bad shape; real bad shape. Crumbled and in pieces and the base of whats left was cracked beyond repair. I cleaned, scraped & brushed the pins, exchanger and chamber. However now I don't have a target wall at all. I've got one on order to be here 3 days; but its going to be cold the next few days. Is it OK to run for a couple days without any target wall? I can replace the kaowool roll on the bottom of the chamber and the top access panel seal, and have replaced the door seal already. Just not sure if its OK to do without the wall for now. Let me know your thoughts or if I am completely off point here!
↧

To service or not to service oil boiler

October 29, 2017, 10:45 am
$
0
0
We're now a year in living in our first home (in other words, first time having a boiler to maintain ourselves), and are debating as to whether or not we should go ahead with an annual service contract for our oil burning boiler. I know it could all come down to chance and circumstance, but I just wanted to get some opinions on this. So, is it common to sign up for these service plans? For reference, I'm eyeing a $320/yr plan that seems to cover the basics, including an annual tune up. The boiler itself is an 8-year old Burnham. Any opinions appreciated.
↧
Search

Combustion test questions

October 30, 2017, 4:08 pm
$
0
0
Hello to all and thank you for this good site.
Just a couple questions about combustion testing.
I have read that you're supposed to put the probe above the breach 6in or so and in the center of the flue pipe, which is supposed to be the hotspot. But on my particular set up though it is not a hotspot there. a hotspot is more towards the outside of the flue pipe maybe an inch away from the outside of the flue pipe and it is about a hundred degrees hotter. Now should I put it in the hotspot or should I keep it in the center of the flue? Btw co2 is 13.2 and o2 is 2.8 In the center it is co2 11.7. o2 4.8

That would be question 1.

The second question is. When I do a smoke test, I I get just a trace of smoke and then when I adjust my air with the combustion analyzer I get zero smoke but I get a real damp spot on the smoke test paper. Is this normal? Now i can add a touch more air and the vapor goes away.

My set up is new Yorker boiler 990-1.
190k btu
Retro fitted with beckett afg.
Boiler calls for 1.75 gph 80 a
I burn a 1.25 gph @ 140 psi which is 1.48 gph
Burner has f3 head.
It also is steel tube vertical with baffles.
Flue temp is 519 outside pipe area. 425 in center of flue.

Thanks in advance for your help.

Dave
↧
↧

ENERGY KINETICS REVIEW

September 22, 2016, 5:00 am
$
0
0
I installed a System 2000 Resolute. AWESOME HIGH QUALITY BOILER! Energy Kinetics makes very high quality American made oil AND gas boilers - the most efficient around. Why are they commonly used in Maine and Alaska? Because they are great! (Check out Stew's Heating in Alaska on Facebook). USES ALMOST ALL COMMON AND EASY TO FIND PARTS, and the very few parts you cant get locally are shipped overnight. I replaced my 60 year old steel boiler- (don't let anyone tell you steel does not last long) Hands down Energy Kinetics are the most efficient systems out there- you just have to sift through all the installers and misinformation from those who dont want to bother getting trained to install them- or those who want you to just go with the old "antique" designs. The old boilers use old 1950's technology, just with an added outdoor reset. My Enrergy Kinetics boiler works incredibly well- I am saving close to 40% or more over my old boiler. Very quiet operation and very well built. You can tell its well designed. Highly recommended!


↧

Riello oil burner gremlins

November 2, 2017, 7:18 am
$
0
0
I wanted to throw this out there asking the collective wisdom of the membership for your opinions.
After the service call on Wednesday that cost me $150.00 I would like to solve this as my wife knows nothing about oil burners.

I am using a very old Riello 40 oil burner that was used for fuel oil prior to switching to kerosene with red dyed kerosene-which I always thought was supposed to be clear un dyed, un taxed kerosene for heating fuel) and it locks out on a regular basis read in five times a day some times.

I have not poured any diesel fuel treatment in the tank this year but having to bleed it every time to start the system tells me I am sucking in air somewhere BUT in saying that I have no oil leaks under the burner. The air bleeder is original equipment for the burner and after I bleed the air it runs fine for a while-sometimes all night.

I replaced the RACOR 500FG fuel filter last year-water separator with drain valve, 10K gallons between filter changes, 10 micron filter with filter lid gasket and O-ring for T handle. I wish I had 2 micron filtration etc. I changed the fuel screen and gasket on the burner last year.

The system is a single pipe top draw oil delivery system using refrigerant grade copper pipe and I am wondering if its time to invest in a pump rebuild kit or simply have a two pipe system installed as I still have half a roll of copper refrigerant tubing and only need to order the oil fittings for the burner and the metric allen wrench for the plug to make it a two pipe system.
The outdoor oil tank is a 275 gallon tank and has 1/2 a tank of oil in it so I know it still has plenty of oil in it.

Investing in a tiger loop will cost me 25 times more than the cost of the 2 pipe fittings and the tank fittings and the second flexible oil line I need for it to convert it.

Any thoughts on this?

Thanks much for the help and collective wisdom of the group.

↧

Decisions, Decisions...Regarding Oil-Fired Heat

November 6, 2017, 12:23 pm
$
0
0
Need some help regarding best solution for oil-fired heating for my situation.

Here's my situation:

Live in NJ. Been in this house for a year, and plan to stay here for a LONG time. Heat exchanger on old oil-fired furnace is cracked. Had an independent manual J done, and the heating load is 80K Btu. Current heating system is one zone for the entire house (3200 sqft). It worked well enough last year that I'd stick with one zone if that's the best way to go given my design goals below.

My design goals, in priority order, are:

1. Efficiency - reduce energy consumption as much as possible to save $$$ (especially if/when oil prices go up again)
2. Low total cost of ownership - factoring in initial cost, maintenance costs, fuel costs, etc.
3. Comfort - obviously, but willing to make some sacrifices if necessary to save $$$
4. Longevity - I want a system that will last a LONG time provided I keep up with maintenance (which I will)
5. Low initial cost - I'm a buy once, cry once kind of person; would rather spend more $$$ initially (to a point, of course) to do it right

Here are the options I'm considering:

1. Replace existing furnace with a new oil-fired, right-sized furnace.
2. Same as option 1, but add zoning (whole house is currently one zone).
3. Install an oil-fired boiler, outdoor reset, hydronic furnace for the first floor (in basement, using existing ducts), and hydronic furnace for the second floor (in attic, using existing ducts). Possibly incorporate indirect hot water (vs. electric now).

Which one would you pick, given my design goals?

Notes:
- Sticking with oil as the fuel (not switching to propane)
- Sticking with forced air as distribution method

Thanks!
↧

Hydronic Baseboard Return Tubing Expansion Noise

November 5, 2017, 3:04 pm
$
0
0
My upstairs zone is one long continuous above-floor run. It has 3/4" copper return tubing resting on return tubing brackets above the fins. When the return tubing heats or cools it causes the brackets to "ping" a little bit as the friction between the return tubing and the brackets is finally overwhelmed by the tension of the expansion/contraction of the tubing. The front covers are attached to these same brackets, and these "pings" get transferred to the covers and cause them to make noise.

I doubt I am the first person to experience this problem. Does anyone know of a good remedy?
↧
↧

Poor burner perfomance....

November 9, 2017, 12:20 pm
$
0
0
My neihbor has single-pipe system(steam) which works fine except when his oil supply gets low,then it is reduced burner out-put. His oil tech told him he needs new burner as the "eye" of burner gets gooky, requiring cleaning. His boiler is 1990's WM, with no other issues in system.
↧

Can't remove blower assembly from thermopride furnace

November 10, 2017, 10:26 am
$
0
0
My blower assembly stuck in its tracks with slides sandwiched between what appears to be two thin strips of insulating foam.
Any suggestions?
Thanks!
↧
Search

Intellicon control sensor problem

January 13, 2017, 2:51 pm
$
0
0
I installed an Intellidyne Intellicon HW+ a few years ago to resolve short cycling of my boiler due to some small baseboard zones. It has worked well until the domestic hot water sensor failed causing the control to allow the DHW to go cold while in bypass mode sending heat to the baseboards. I found corrosion on the circuit board of the sensor and went to find a replacement but it appears Intellidyne is out of business. I ordered a 4002C sensor from Supplyhouse (the only place that had it in stock) and was sent a different looking sensor. The original used 4 conductors and the new one only has 2. I'm not sure if they sent the wrong part or if this is supposed to be a replacement. I connected it and the Intellicon control doesn't read the new sensor.

If anyone is familiar with this control and could offer advice let me know. I will contact Supplyhouse on Monday to return the sensor if it is indeed the wrong one. Thanks.

Pictures of old (left) vs new part (right):


↧

Honeywell AQ thermostats too sensitive..?

November 13, 2017, 1:51 pm
$
0
0
Hello everyone, Over the summer I replaced my Taco zone controller and Lux thermostats with the Honeywell aquatrol zone controller and AQ thermostats, specifically for the zone synchronization feature. I was tired of hearing my oil burner kicking on and off with every zone calling at separate times. Now with the cold weather finally here I am seeing how it's working for the first time. The zones all call at the same time like they are supposed to but the Honeywell thermostats react to temperature change extremely fast. I used to get between 5- 10 minute burner run times with the lux thermostats with one zone running. Now with all 4 zones calling at the same time I am getting between 3-5 minutes of burner run times because the thermostats are getting satisfied very quickly. This is the exact opposite of why I changed everything. Anyone have any suggestions?? Thanks for reading.
↧
↧

Replacement Oil Fired Hot Water Boiler - Is Size of Supply and Return Part of the Decision Process?

November 13, 2017, 8:46 pm
$
0
0
It's time to replace an early 1980's Weil McLain boiler - nameplate rating 167,000 DOE. Chimney vented.
Baseboard throughout first level. Recent slim-line cast iron radiators on second floor. A few old baseboards in the basement. Five zones including separate hot water tank. The zone valves have not worked well of late.
A heat loss analysis will need to be done, but I suspect the current boiler is oversized.
Water to and from the boiler is 2" copper. Same size black iron piping manifold above the boiler and a 2" iron main the full length of the basement plus 1" copper lines. Iron and copper water lines span out to baseboard and radiators.
There seems to be a large volume of water to move. Is it advisable to select a new boiler with substantial water capacity and the same 2" supply and return to match the original piping design? Peerless EC-3 would fit those criteria. Some other models by Peerless and Buderus have 1-1/2" connections and hold less water.
Thanks for your guidance.
↧

System 2000

November 14, 2017, 4:51 pm
$
0
0
A contractor friend of mine asked if we can convert the boiler to Natural gas?
↧

central home oil heater exhaust and damper adjustment

November 16, 2017, 9:02 am
$
0
0
My oil heater was replaced 12 years ago. its been working fine all these years. now I need to move the exhaust exit from roof to gable opening. This will lengthen the tube by about 50%. I will do a tune up afterwards. I see no weight on the adjustable damper and i see no hole to check the pressure. So, I suspect that it was never adjusted when the heater was replaced. Also, the old heater exhaust tube was larger diameter, so the new smaller heater exhaust tube (5.5") is fitted to the larger tube (7") right below the damper. That would effect the pressure, I know. So, Im thinking that I should get new exhaust piping to match the tube coming from the heater, right? However, this means a smaller diameter longer exhaust run. Also a new damper too, one that has a weight that i can adjust. comments?

The Dwyer mark II is the cheapest manometer that i can find resolution down to 0.01 and it has great user ratings. Comments?

bryant install paperwork gives no info on exhaust. beckett paper work says 1/4" rise for every 12", might need an exhaust fan to pull the exhaust out, if exhausting to out side of building, it's better to have the combustion air intake going thru the same wall to balance the unit. I dont understand that and it has worked fine all these years with intake in garage, exhaust outside roof.
comments?

pics https://imgur.com/a/6pxXn

tks,
pa
↧
Viewing all 1338 articles
Browse latest View live
Search