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Diesel hydronic system intermittent malfunction

November 16, 2017, 10:01 am
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I have a beckett oil burner attached to my peerless boiler that intermittently malfunctions. i have had both of my local HVAC companies over to look at it and neither one can figure out the issue they just keep throwing parts at it. It is a diesel hydronic system with individual circulation pumps for the domestic hot water and the 3 individual air boxes.
So far the entire blower/burner unit is new including, oil pump, blower motor, fan, ignitor and the control box but the problem continues. Is there anything else can cause the blower motor to no fire? The exhaust fan starts as it should, about 15-20 sec before the blower should kick on. When the blower is running there seems to be good fuel. Is there a thermostat somewhere that I can check. In the beckett manual it explains about the polarity wiring on certain thermostats which when wired incorrectly can create intermittent issues. The control box is a Honeywell. The only unchanged part is the CAD cell eye which I have on hand if needed.

The boiler will work for a a week sometimes and sometimes it turns off a couple times in a day. Sometimes it can be reset with the reset button and sometimes the button will not reset and the only way to reset it is to turn off power to the unit and then turn the entire unit back on.

It seems like the blower is not being triggered to start, then the unit locks out because it doesn't sense a flame.

I can send picture or whatever else I need to do to get this problem remedied. I hope someone will be able to help.

The gentlemen at becket said it was my forced exhausted control board not returning power to the blower motor. Maybe....
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Electrode change out how often?

July 24, 2017, 2:12 pm
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I'm doing annual maintenance on my properly operating Beckett/Trio oil boiler. How often typically are electrodes replaced?
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Gremlin in the boiler!

November 19, 2017, 7:01 am
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I was servicing an oil burner and found this in the flue!
The boiler is used only in winter for heat, so who knows how long its been there!
Anyone come across any other strange 'gremlins' in their travels?

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Oil Boiler Safety Risk

November 20, 2017, 8:45 am
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My home is heated with an oiler boiler (Emerald by Columbia) distributing hot water to baseboard radiators in 3 zones. See images from different angles. The domestic hot water equipment has been removed/disabled. I don’t know the exact age of the unit but I estimate 20 years or older.
A technician recently performed maintenance on the unit and said that it has a crack on the back wall of the combustion chamber. I tried to capture an image of this below. The technician recommended a new boiler and to have it installed right away because it represents a significant fire hazard. He left with the unit turned off to protect my family’s safety (due to carbon monoxide and fire breaching the outer wall). I don’t know when this crack developed, but no other technician noticed this issue during previous year inspections.
My questions:
1) Does this represent an immediate safety risk, or can I use the boiler while I look for a new unit? The technician recommended a company that will give in a quote today.
2) If I do replace the boiler, what type would be both good quality and value? The technician said cast iron would be best.
3) What is an estimate cost for the boiler and full installation of the unit?
Thanks very much in advance.
BoilerNovice






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Water in basement after installing two buderus boilers

July 16, 2017, 5:41 am
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In September 2016, I purchased two Buderus G115/4 boilers with two Flo-tech indirect water heaters in my basement. I live in a multi-family house. The basement floor has always been dry. This has been our family home for 58 years. After installing these boilers, I noticed that my basement floor is wet where the boilers were installed. The installer came to my house to diagnose the problem. All the inlet and outlet piping is dry. The only issue I had since the installation was that the aqua stat controller failed on one of the boilers. This boiler was running for a couple of months with this issue as I went through a lot of fuel during that time. The chimney clean out is also dry. Are there any ideas as to where the source of water could be coming from?
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Boiler Repair

August 20, 2017, 8:39 am
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Hi There,

I'm part of an 80-unit co-op whose boiler is in need of some repairs and I'm looking for some help on the terminology. We had two contractors come by and have a look at it and both provided a different repair solution. I'm just trying to make head from tails on how to proceed.

For reference, this is an Eastco (A.L. Eastmond & Sons) model FST150. The issue is that the front wall in the boiler at the fire cone is cracked and is starting to fall apart.

One proposal is to repair the cracked wall with replacement refractory, reline the front plate with kao wool insulation, and make whatever other repairs are needed with new refractory. There is an alternate for rebuilding the fire cone as well. The second proposal is to rebuild the front wall and, if needed, the fire cone itself.

First of all, I'm not sure if the kao wool is there originally, so what does this do to the way the boiler heats up? Secondly, what is the refractory made of? This is the lining of the masonry in the boiler? With all the heating and cooling off taking place, how long really can we expect this to last?

If anyone has a section diagram handy, that would be immensely helpful.
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Riello, Carlin or beckett

August 21, 2017, 6:01 pm
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Hello,

I have an old oil burner, perhaps 20 years old.
It has a beckett burner.
I recently heard that changing the burner to a riello f5 40 would be better for me...that is more efficient, burns cleaner and uses less oil.
I found a cheap Riello and also a Carlin, but I would like to know what do you guys think..

Thanks
Joe
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looking to upgrade oil boiler

August 28, 2017, 10:41 am
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hello new to this site I'm looking to upgrade my 25 year old weil mcclain, I've been looking at the peerless wb90-03 to be used with the tekmar260 and an amtrol hydromax indirect hwh. I cant find any reviews on the peerless wb90-03 hows their performance reliability and any other info I should know before I make the purchase. Thanks for any info given
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Steam Boiler Pressure

September 1, 2017, 6:44 am
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Helo.
I started haveing problems tiht my boiler. It doesnt fire up untill i adjust Pressuretrolup to 3psi. the manometer gauge shows 3psi when cold and when fires up ( after i adjust Pressuretrol) reaches about 6psi and stops. any suggestions
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Emerald/Columbia EM-110 with Beckett Burner Bright Yellow Mineral despoits in chamber

September 2, 2017, 11:50 am
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Hi All,
Thanks for taking time to read my post and provide any insight as I have never owned a oil boiler before.

I do not have any real issues except that I noticed a yellow rusty/crusty residue/mineral on the flue pipe so I decided to take the flue apart and noticed all of this weird colored HARD crust, I was expecting black soot. Please take a look at the pictures. The tubes were practically clogged, so I shop cleaned them very well and my heating service guy did not mention anything about it to me until I asked and he said, it means its burning clean? I goggled this and I cant find anything on it.

What is all the yellow/rusty colored crud?
Does it mean something is broke?
I have tried Hot 4 in 1 additive one year and then Archoil AR 6200 fuel additive the next year and after both years and hundreds of gallons of oil burners still the same result?

Some search results say High Sulfer content and some say cold water return or burner does not get hot enough but everything checks out ... I am out of guesses!




Thanks Guys
Vinny in PA
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Can anyone help interpret these oil boiler servicing test results?

September 5, 2017, 8:15 am
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Thankyou if you can. We're buying a house with oil heating/hot water and I know nothing about oil boilers. Please can you tell me if this looks normal or if there's anything to worry about? Also the CO level on the sheet we've been given is blank - would this have been on a separate printout that we should request (if they have it)?

Its a Grant Vortex pro 15-26
Burner Riello RDB1
Flue type CF-LLD
Burner type PJ Fuel type C2

Efficiency Nett 95.7% Gross 90.1%
Excess air 37.3%
CO2 11.25%
Nozzle size 0.65, angle 60, pattern EH
Flue gas temp 78.1 degC

Also the tank is 2000 ltr single skin unbunded plastic. Is it normal to have a single skin unbunded tank - sounds like it could be a leak liability? The owners say they don't know how old it is - do they need replacing frequently? Also there is an advisory on the sheet noting flammable material within 60cm of the tank - I think we can clear this if necessary but I need to check what it all is - if we cant clear it all is that a problem?

Thankyou!
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Best bang for the buck in small, not high end house - oil heat

September 7, 2017, 10:40 am
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Hello all,

So my son has a small 950sq ft house with a old Franklin in need of replacing. So I been trying to read all discussions and kind of do my own Consumer Reports of boilers to determine best bang for the dollar with decent reliability and fuel usage. The house is a modest starter, so not looking anything high end or big $$$.

We know there's lots of good products and lots of good opinions, but it's definitely pretty hard to organize.

So I figure a modest boiler with a 40gal indirect. My tech is suggesting the smallest (85k btu) Burnham RSA. He likes the RSA and figures the cold start would save fuel in the long run.

Any thoughts greatly appreciated, thx

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5 gallon fuel can

September 10, 2017, 5:45 am
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Question for other techs out there.

What are you using for oil run outs these days to deliver fuel? The 5 gallon cans I have on my van are a bit old and I'd like to replace them. The style of gerry can I have now is not manufactured any longer.

Thanks for any suggestions or links.
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Riello Burner questions again

November 21, 2017, 12:50 pm
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Update on my Riello oil burner,

I finally found the leak-the last compression fitting loose on the final copper connection to the burner nozzle and it stopped air locking yesterday. I also found the turbolator setting worm and and locking nut had backed off almost to the number 3 position. I reset and locked the turbolator to the number one position per the manual and I restarted the burner and the burner no longer wanted act up but it still smokes and the 1 Gallon Per Hour nozzle is clean.
The electrodes are also clean as well and they have not loosened and or slipped.

With regard to the smoke issue; is it entirely possible that the 4 year old red dyed kerosene fuel in my tank is the issue??? I quite a full tank when I started burning this year and with having the lock out issues with the loose fittings
I filter down to 10 micron and have a water separator in the filter and there is no water in the collection bowl of the RACOR 500FG filter .

I would imagine I wasted fuel from the leaking fitting as I could not see the leak without removing the nozzle and electrode assembly.

I added a quart of diesel 911 to the tank when it was slightly less than half full.

I have to start burning coal tonight as I have an 1/8 of a tank of fuel in the tank now not including the six inches of waste kerosene for the dirt and crud in the tank to settle in.

The air damper setting is controlled by the oil powered pump jack on my Riello burner and the bottom edge of the air damper door is exactly at the arrow location on the squirrel cage combustion fans housing.

I want to install a .65 GPH nozzle in my burner as my boiler as the oil firing system is a back up for the coal stoker boiler. My system has a combined 54 gallons of water in the heating loop, the steel expansion tank and the boiler steam chest.

Thanks much
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Buderus room sensor

November 21, 2017, 6:37 pm
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I have a Buderus with the old Ecomatic 2000 control system (predecessor to Logamatic). I've always had a problem regulating the area of the house most distant from the boiler, and I'd like to try to run a Buderus remote room sensor. The sensor used with the Ecomatic was a "BFC". My question is whether the BFU sensor used with the 2107 would be compatible, as all stock and technical information about the BFC has disappeared into the dustbin of history.
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oil tank vent whisle

November 25, 2017, 7:04 am
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My oil tank whistle is clogged. I want to take it out and clean it or replace it. In the vent pipe is a union? (see pics) looking at the union the left side seems to be where it should come apart. When I put the pipe wrench on the middle part and pull down the middle moves but so does the right side at the pipe it is attached to and not the union. I am "assuming" the right side piece of the union is frozen to the middle. Am I correct and any suggestions on how to free it. I have been putting penetrating oil on it . Thanks
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on a 'Round Oak' oil furnace

November 26, 2017, 2:52 am
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homeowner said he had to keep pushing the 'reset button' which is 'field controls' mounted in vent. i removed the burner assy. and googled the model # so i could find some tech. info about the proper alignment of the igniters....zero info because round oak was bought out by peerless and there's no info out there. i normally work on gas furnaces and this is my first oil sys. i read where if u push the reset too many times it will flood the combustion chamber and it will eventually need replaced. how do you find out if it needs replaced? and does anyone know the gap specs on this round oak FOL - 90 - 2 pump = Marathon mod 45 field controls calibrated draft control. the cdc is doing it's job because it puts it in lockout
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Whistle stuck or clogged in my vent tube

November 26, 2017, 2:41 pm
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In my buried 275 gallon home heating fuel tank, the last oil delivery had a non-existence whistle. I attempted to clean it with Fuel Right, dumped down the vent tube, followed by mineral spirits a few days later.
I then took a Shop Vac type of vacuum, and blew air through the vent and the tank alternately to no avail.
Problem still exists. Plenty of air is released, but no whistle.
Again, this is a buried tank.

My next possible step, since the top of the whistle is 38 inches from the vent cap, is to insert a live camera probe, with a small diameter rigid wooden dowel into the vent top, in an attempt to thread the thin dowel (or other rigid wire) through the center of the whistle, and push any gunk back into the tank...

Now I haven't seen a picture of a whistle, to ensure the tube in not blocked by any device, to prevent my dowel or wire to pass through it.

Any ideas on this situation?
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Riello 40 F5. Flame

November 27, 2017, 6:38 am
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I just serviced my burner last night and have been using the same nozzle and electrodes for years. I haven't done an efficiency test yet or verified pump pressure, but for some reason I wanted to check the flame shape and quality this time and I noticed that around the outside of the flame I could see droplets of fuel hitting the back of the combustion chamber. Is this normal? Nozzle is a Delavan .85x80B per the Burnham/riello combo kit install sheet. Any thoughts would be appreciated.
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Exhaust Smell in house / Direct Vent Dunkirk Oil Fired Boiler

November 28, 2017, 1:02 pm
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All,

First before I start, there are wired CO detectors, battery CO detectors, and brand new honey well CO and smoke detectors that are linked to my monitored alarm system on every level of the house. There is also a rise of heat detector in the mechanical room. Please read entire post, I am desperate for help and direction.

The house is 3200sq feet colonial built in 2005, it has 2 zone hydro hot air with a dunkirk oil fired boiler. The basement is 1500sq feet finished but not heated. The dunkirk is direct vent with a fresh air intake to the outside via an air boot. We purchased the house in may of 2017, I had the dunkirk serviced immediately, my wife noticed an exhaust smell from the point when we moved in, the tech (owner of the service) said with oil you will always get some smell, he said he could come back and reseal the top, but likely would not do much. I switched companies after my wife complained more, I brought in a big HVAC contractor, they sent their oil tech 33 years of experience. Super nice guy spent 2 hours working on it. He cleaned the unit and sealed the top with cement or RTV. He told my wife that the way the flue is there would always be exhaust smell, especially with direct vent and no chimney. He sealed between the sections, as he said factory sealant broke down. He took an CO reading, it was fine, he said the boiler operates as it should. Also there is no soot on the side of the house. He recommended with switch to propane. Ever since the service I have a bad exhaust smell in the house and basement at random. I called the HVAC company they are sending an engineer out tomorrow, but I think he just wants to replace it. I need advice, I will try to attach pics. PLEASE HELP! I even built a temporary block wall to brake up the exhaust to the intake.




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