We have a Weil-McLain SGO-5 boiler system that seems to be losing water at a faster rate as time goes by. When we first moved in, almost three years ago, it would need topping up perhaps once per day. Now, even though the outside temp is only in the thirties and forties, it runs out in a few hours. I don’t see any water leaks, and steam release from the radiators appears to be about the same. What can I do to fix this?
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Losing water faster and faste
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Non working oil boiler situation - did I flood the combustion chamber?
Hi All,
First time homeowner and with no experience with oil boiler. Unfortunately, I didn't know better when hitting the reset button. But after hours and days of searching the forums and watching videos, I realized that was a bad move and a very dangerous move.
I have pressed the reset button probably like 10 times or more. It is a 8 year old Burham oil boiler with a beckett unit with a Honeywell Primary Control. I think it might be in restricted lockout right now since the light is constantly blinking. Question: if a boiler is in restricted lockout, does pressing the reset button push more oil to the combustion chamber?
Every time the reset button was hit, it appears the motor moves for a few seconds then everything just stops. No fire, no nothing. I also have not had an annual service done, so I'm hoping it is a clogged nozzle or dirty filter. I do plan to check the filter and nozzle this weekend.
Is there a way for me to check if the combustion chamber is flooded, aside from trying to smelling for it?
I did not contact a pro yet because I did plan to do an oil to gas conversion the coming summer. If I did indeed flooded the combustion chamber or if there is a bigger issue. Then, I would rather save that money and expedite the conversion. Any comments/suggestions would be greatly appreciated!
First time homeowner and with no experience with oil boiler. Unfortunately, I didn't know better when hitting the reset button. But after hours and days of searching the forums and watching videos, I realized that was a bad move and a very dangerous move.
I have pressed the reset button probably like 10 times or more. It is a 8 year old Burham oil boiler with a beckett unit with a Honeywell Primary Control. I think it might be in restricted lockout right now since the light is constantly blinking. Question: if a boiler is in restricted lockout, does pressing the reset button push more oil to the combustion chamber?
Every time the reset button was hit, it appears the motor moves for a few seconds then everything just stops. No fire, no nothing. I also have not had an annual service done, so I'm hoping it is a clogged nozzle or dirty filter. I do plan to check the filter and nozzle this weekend.
Is there a way for me to check if the combustion chamber is flooded, aside from trying to smelling for it?
I did not contact a pro yet because I did plan to do an oil to gas conversion the coming summer. If I did indeed flooded the combustion chamber or if there is a bigger issue. Then, I would rather save that money and expedite the conversion. Any comments/suggestions would be greatly appreciated!
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Wood Boiler connection to Weil McClein Boiler
I have a wood boiler plumbed ready for use. I need to make my final connections to my Weil McClein oil burner. I am connecting to the return manifold and the supply manifold of the furnace. Do I need to install shut off valves on the manifolds so the water does not circulate thru the furnace. Or is that normal for the water to travel thru the oil burner
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What happened to OilTechTalk?
It's been a while since I've been on here, and I noticed that OilTechTalk doesn't come up on the web anymore. Are they done? Always thought it was a great forum!
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Beckett suntec oil pump seizing up
my suntec oil pump seize up . called my nephew he directed me on how to check blower motor first then the oil pump , pump was seized up and sent me to a supply house for a new one , suntec with solenoid two line system going into top of oil tank. Installed new one and ran fine for 4 days seized up again , removed oil pump and worked it free by moving shaft back and forth on pump , put back together worked fine again for about 4 to 5 days this time seized again . I freed it up and its been 3 days now working fine . There is 3/4 of a tank of oil , new oil filter , new nozzle installed . Checked all oil lines for leaks . We are baffled , anybody out their have this problem or knows what could be causing this to happen any answers would be deeply appreciated. Thank You Gilman
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What else can I try!!!! UGH!!! LOCKOUT>
Hi guys,
OK, we've got a Weil McLain Boiler that every few days (just around 3) goes into lockout. we hit the reset and it fires back up for another 3 days.
We cleaned it with proper spacing at the electrodes. Blew back the oil line just incase, changed the primary, changed the motor, changed the cad cell eye, checked tube in power vent and all connections.
EVERYTHING seems to be ok???
The new primary that we put on tells the reason for lockout unless it does not know. IE lockout, check cad cell.
When it does not know it just says No Ignition. That is the only code we get.
If you might have an idea for us to try PLEASE advise.
Thank You in advance!
OK, we've got a Weil McLain Boiler that every few days (just around 3) goes into lockout. we hit the reset and it fires back up for another 3 days.
We cleaned it with proper spacing at the electrodes. Blew back the oil line just incase, changed the primary, changed the motor, changed the cad cell eye, checked tube in power vent and all connections.
EVERYTHING seems to be ok???
The new primary that we put on tells the reason for lockout unless it does not know. IE lockout, check cad cell.
When it does not know it just says No Ignition. That is the only code we get.
If you might have an idea for us to try PLEASE advise.
Thank You in advance!
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AO Smith Motor making weird noises
Hi guys,
I am new to the forums, but have AO Smith oil burner motor forced combustion.
It started making weird noises recently when I turn on the heat, it seems it is vibrating inside the motor and I am not sure if I need to replace it completely or try to open and see if something is loose.
I am attaching the pictures, I hope this would help.![]()
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Thank you very much
I am new to the forums, but have AO Smith oil burner motor forced combustion.
It started making weird noises recently when I turn on the heat, it seems it is vibrating inside the motor and I am not sure if I need to replace it completely or try to open and see if something is loose.
I am attaching the pictures, I hope this would help.
Thank you very much
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Wiring diagrams for magic chef furnace
Anyone know where I can find wiring diagrams for light commercial magic chef furnace?
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Is it safe? Boiler Liner Half Gone!
Have a four year old Utica Trifire 6130 boiler. Was just serviced last month. For reasons too long to go into here, I didn't trust the service was done properly. Opened it up to check how well it was cleaned out and discovered the boiler had not been cleaned or vacuumed during the service. I'll take that up with their service manager. My reason for posting here is...I also discovered that the v-liner in the bottom of the boiler is half gone (specifically the back half). The target wall insulation is in good shape. Is this v-liner critical to safe operation, or does it contribute to efficiency?
Also, I looked the part up and it appears to be about $87. Why so much for a simple piece of sheet metal?
Also, I looked the part up and it appears to be about $87. Why so much for a simple piece of sheet metal?
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about time to change heating oil tank
hello all,
it's about time to change my heating oil tank. i am complete noob here, what would be the kind of tanks to look into. I am hearing a lot about Roth but cant seem to find pricing. How expensive are they?
I am in northeast, USA.
Any recommendations?
it's about time to change my heating oil tank. i am complete noob here, what would be the kind of tanks to look into. I am hearing a lot about Roth but cant seem to find pricing. How expensive are they?
I am in northeast, USA.
Any recommendations?
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Riello misfiring
I have a Columbia furnace with a Riello 40-F3 burner that had been working well since I bought this house. The other day I came back to a cold house and a locked out burner. I noticed the smell of burnt electronics and found a blown wire from the lockout switch and a popped capacitor, highlighted in the picture below.
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Hoping that this was just a capacitor that gave up after 25 years or so of service, I ordered a replacement control box and switched over to the heat pump. When the new box showed up I installed it with the old CAD cell after checking it and going through the other voltage and resistance checks from the Riello troubleshooting chart. I bumped up the thermostat a few degrees and turned the furnace back on, then watched as it went all the way up to ignition, but cut out immediately after lighting. It would reignite every five seconds or so without locking out, but would never stay lit. I've posted a video to youtube just to make sure I'm not describing it incorrectly:
![image]()
Nothing in this system has changed that I could point to as a cause. Everything seems to check out when going through the troubleshooting chart. I'm used to being able to figure things out for the most part and an oil burner doesn't seem like rocket science (although I know that experience counts for a lot) but I'm at a loss here. Does anybody recognize these symptoms or have an idea of something else to check, or should I just suck it up and call in for service?
Thanks,
Mike
Hoping that this was just a capacitor that gave up after 25 years or so of service, I ordered a replacement control box and switched over to the heat pump. When the new box showed up I installed it with the old CAD cell after checking it and going through the other voltage and resistance checks from the Riello troubleshooting chart. I bumped up the thermostat a few degrees and turned the furnace back on, then watched as it went all the way up to ignition, but cut out immediately after lighting. It would reignite every five seconds or so without locking out, but would never stay lit. I've posted a video to youtube just to make sure I'm not describing it incorrectly:
Nothing in this system has changed that I could point to as a cause. Everything seems to check out when going through the troubleshooting chart. I'm used to being able to figure things out for the most part and an oil burner doesn't seem like rocket science (although I know that experience counts for a lot) but I'm at a loss here. Does anybody recognize these symptoms or have an idea of something else to check, or should I just suck it up and call in for service?
Thanks,
Mike
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Tjerlund HST-1 Power Venter
I have a job with a problem. The customer had an old System 2000 power vented and needed a new boiler. Installed boiler in 2014 and didn't have a problem with it till May 2017. had to replace the power venter. Installed new Tjerlund HST-1 power venter. The smoke pipe is 4'' about 29' long as it was with the system 2000 and with the new boiler installed in 2014 and never had a problem. Now have a problem with fumes in the house. Checked all connections to smoke pipe they are all ok.
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Beckett AFG and TigerLoop problems
At first, if the burner sat idle too long, I could bled the line, restart, and it would fire fine and run until it idled again. I replaced the thermostat because it would turn on the heat unless it was set to 80. Same problem with air in the line. Then it wouldn't refire. First tech spent 3 hours and ended up changing the filter and canister (which I had just done) and got it to refired. It ran for 4 days then shut off and wouldn't refire. Bleeding the line showed a lot of air. Second tech came out and said either the line needed to be replaced or a tigerloop installed. I opted to install it myself. Installed correctly, including bypass plug, ran for 30 minutes. Tried to restart and tiger loop filled with foam. Finally got it to fill with oil and burner fired. Runs for 15-30 minutes, and flame goes out. An hour later the reset light flashes. The flame goes out when the gauges hit a specific point each time but the house has not reached temperature. I included pictures for reference. I am at a loss as to what to the problem is. There's no leaks anywhere that can be seen. The nozzle is clear, the filter is new, the filter gasket and seal are good, the eye is clean.
Right now, the tigerloop is on the crate bc there is not enough give to mount it and I didn't have any more piping on hand. I plan to mount it properly.
Right now, the tigerloop is on the crate bc there is not enough give to mount it and I didn't have any more piping on hand. I plan to mount it properly.
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Beckett lockout
Hi guys, frustrated new homeowner here haha. So I've been having lockout issues, carrier furnace, beckett burner. First time techs came out, said line needed to be bled, replaced nozzle and filter. Still locking out. Second time out, told me to replace overhead fuel line. Tank and furnace are in basement, line comes from under tank then goes to joists, runs about 12 feet then down to burner. Replaced line now on ground. Third time out, replaced fuel pump and primary control with beckett R7284U. Still locking out. Error code says no ignition check igniter. I'm kind of handy but just wondering if you guys know something these techs dont. Thanks for any help.
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Have to reset boiler with circuit breaker
Hey all, looking for some guidance here, I have a boiler system with circulators, and a ss-1 powervent, Oil company has been here 6 times now and cannot figure out the issue, they have replaced the power vent pc board, cleaned the vacuum switch tube, The issue is the primary control does not go off on reset, but if i shut off and back on circuit breaker the unit will fire up fine and run for days if not weeks. And no the breaker is not tripping either. Any help would be appreciated. Could it be the primary control?
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Heating boiler problem
So ran out fuel, filled... reset boiler... started just fine but was only heating 1 out 2 zones. Thought it might be thermostat problem with zone 2. New batteries didn’t seem to help.
Both zone lines into house feel hot. Zone 1 was working and turning on boiler once temp dropped below temp.
Now the boiler is shutting its self off before zone reaches temp.
Looks like boiler internal thermostat is set to 190 and reaching 220 before shutting itself off.
So are my zone pumps bad? Can both them go out at same time? I mean I still feel little heat coming out zone 1 radiators, but no heat out zone 2.
Both zone lines into house feel hot. Zone 1 was working and turning on boiler once temp dropped below temp.
Now the boiler is shutting its self off before zone reaches temp.
Looks like boiler internal thermostat is set to 190 and reaching 220 before shutting itself off.
So are my zone pumps bad? Can both them go out at same time? I mean I still feel little heat coming out zone 1 radiators, but no heat out zone 2.
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one baseboard does not heat
did a google search for painting baseboards and found this site. wish i['d found you before. i had a new furnace in about 5 yrs ago, all was well until a plumber added an electric hot water tank in the basement and disconnected from furnace. my bedroom no longer heats have paid over $350 to 3 heating guys. they drained the system and still no hot water...said they'd have to tear out ceiling in (newly installed) basement room. chose not to do that. but looking at my age and possibility i may have to sell this would have to be fixed. i'm at a loss. i believe the furnace is peerless. if you have any idea on who could solve this i'd be grateful.
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First Buderus G115-WS3 cleaning
Hello , I have a new system installed June 2016. It is a GW115 with a Riello F3-40 burner. (.55gph 60A nozzle). I opened it for the first ti me here are some pictures. Not much ash considering its been in service for 18 months for DHW and heat. How does it look to you all?![]()
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Oil Burner stops mid-burn
(I probably posted this originally in the wrong forum)
I had trouble with my oiler burner at the end of last year - the reset button on the controller kept opening. Over the summer, I replaced the oil filter and pump screen, happy that it ran trouble free for a month already this season. But it’s happening again… Burner always starts up great when the reset is pushed - seems no problem with transformer, cad cell or electrodes?
I sat with it this time - no puff-back or unburned fuel odor .. It sounded like a good, normal burn for 10 minutes until the reset button popped out for no apparent reason and shut boiler down.
What would cause a burn to be stopped like that - in the middle of a normal burn? I thought the primary control/cad cell only operated to verify initial ignition…could the primary be faulty?
Help and insight are appreciated!
I had trouble with my oiler burner at the end of last year - the reset button on the controller kept opening. Over the summer, I replaced the oil filter and pump screen, happy that it ran trouble free for a month already this season. But it’s happening again… Burner always starts up great when the reset is pushed - seems no problem with transformer, cad cell or electrodes?
I sat with it this time - no puff-back or unburned fuel odor .. It sounded like a good, normal burn for 10 minutes until the reset button popped out for no apparent reason and shut boiler down.
What would cause a burn to be stopped like that - in the middle of a normal burn? I thought the primary control/cad cell only operated to verify initial ignition…could the primary be faulty?
Help and insight are appreciated!
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Buderus G115-WS3 analyzer readings look ok?
Here are the readings from my Buderus G115-WS. I think they look good, what do you guys think? I checked the readings using my Test 310.
* Stack temp is ~ 355 degrees
* Efficiency is around 89.5. This seems to drop a digit or two as the boiler's "on since started" time increases.
* Excess Air is 42%
* Cardon Dioxide is 10.83%
* Carbon Monoxide is 4ppm
* Undiluted Carbon Monoxide is 4ppm
* O2 is 6.5%
* Stack temp is ~ 355 degrees
* Efficiency is around 89.5. This seems to drop a digit or two as the boiler's "on since started" time increases.
* Excess Air is 42%
* Cardon Dioxide is 10.83%
* Carbon Monoxide is 4ppm
* Undiluted Carbon Monoxide is 4ppm
* O2 is 6.5%
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