How far in is the bypass plug on a suntec a2va-3006 supposed to be installed? I put mine in as far as it would go and think I blew the pump. I noticed there is a small port on the side of where the plug goes. I might have gone in far enough to cover it. Does the plug just go level with the threads?
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Suntec bypass plug depth?
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Put sludge treatment in my tank and now have huge water in my fuel issue and burner problems.
During filter changes the last year or so I saw signs of water and sludge in my filters. At my next oil fill I added the recommended amount of Hercules sludge treat on the bottle to treat the issue. I read good reviews on it but what a mistake that was. It appears this stuff does work but it turns any water in your tank into microscopic particles that will just suspend in the oil and pass through your filters. When I bleed the pump I can see the particles suspended in the oil its that bad. As a further test I put a small bottle of fuel I bled in the freezer and its loaded with water particles.
Its a Beckett NX Burner and I spent about a week trying to figure out why it wouldn't run right. Its pulses and bangs like crazy no matter what I do and I have literally changed every part on it before I figured out it was the fuel.
I know a new tank/fuel is the solution but I absolutely don't have the money to do that right now. Tank is about 5/8 full. Can I possible add some Kerosene or Diesel. Or would a small oil delivery maybe help solve the issue by diluting it?
Here are some pictures. Not the greatest but all those small particles are frozen water.
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Its a Beckett NX Burner and I spent about a week trying to figure out why it wouldn't run right. Its pulses and bangs like crazy no matter what I do and I have literally changed every part on it before I figured out it was the fuel.
I know a new tank/fuel is the solution but I absolutely don't have the money to do that right now. Tank is about 5/8 full. Can I possible add some Kerosene or Diesel. Or would a small oil delivery maybe help solve the issue by diluting it?
Here are some pictures. Not the greatest but all those small particles are frozen water.
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having some radiator not hooked-up can ruin a boiler, true or false?
I am in a COOP with 20 units, each unit have 3 radiator. I am on the top floor and disconnected 2 of them is it was too hot. Managing agent said that having radiator disconnected will ruin the boiler. Is it true?
Thanks for reading and heloing out!
Thanks for reading and heloing out!
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Please Recommend an Oil Boiler Installer for Greater Nashua NH Area
Hello, been lurking here for close to a year learning and reading in preparation for a new boiler install in my house.
House is 1600 sqft built in 78' and has a Crown boiler with tankless coil and Carlin 100CRD burner with a 1g/hr nozzle.
We are looking to upgrade the system due to the marginal performance of the tankless coil (been flush and acid cleaned once already), the burner has a slow drip of oil which the service man has not found the source of (new pump, hardline, tipped burner towards chamber etc.). The biggest issue is that the face plate of the boiler where the burner mounts appears to be getting thin as it is very flexible and sags with the weight of burner.
Anyways, we are looking at a new system with an indirect hot water tank for installation this spring. I have had 4 contractors come in with 6 different quotes and none of them performed a heat loss calculation so I am looking for a recommendation for someone in my area to come and do this right. The contractor locator doesn't have any listings for southern NH. By my calcs all the systems that were quoted were 2-3 times over sized for our house. I used the Slantfin app and came up with around 55,000BTU assuming I entered everything correctly.
Thanks for your help
Mike
House is 1600 sqft built in 78' and has a Crown boiler with tankless coil and Carlin 100CRD burner with a 1g/hr nozzle.
We are looking to upgrade the system due to the marginal performance of the tankless coil (been flush and acid cleaned once already), the burner has a slow drip of oil which the service man has not found the source of (new pump, hardline, tipped burner towards chamber etc.). The biggest issue is that the face plate of the boiler where the burner mounts appears to be getting thin as it is very flexible and sags with the weight of burner.
Anyways, we are looking at a new system with an indirect hot water tank for installation this spring. I have had 4 contractors come in with 6 different quotes and none of them performed a heat loss calculation so I am looking for a recommendation for someone in my area to come and do this right. The contractor locator doesn't have any listings for southern NH. By my calcs all the systems that were quoted were 2-3 times over sized for our house. I used the Slantfin app and came up with around 55,000BTU assuming I entered everything correctly.
Thanks for your help
Mike
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Instant Hot Water, Heater Coil?
How does one know when the heater coil inside an Oil fired burner is going bad? I have a Weil Mclain Oil fired boiler that heats the home and provides hot water to the entire house. My problem is that after the initial burst of hot water, let's say approximately 2 gallons. The water cools for the next 2 to 4 gallons to at best luke warm, then it heats back up to the original hot water temperature, before dropping off again for good. This is most apparent in the showers but it can be seen at any sink. I spoke with my HVAC company and they seemed to think it was the coil inside the boiler. Before I take the my house's hot water supply off the boiler I wanted to make sure this is a sign of the coil going bad. I've done things like replacing the mixing valves at the showers. There does not appear to be a mixing valve on the boiler.
-Steve
-Steve
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Oil tank gauge for underground tank replace.
I'm not quite sure how this gauge is connected to the tank. The gauge is in the boiler room on the wall next to the boiler. The tank itself is underground on the opposite side of the house, so there is no way for the oil company to check it with a dipstick at the fill. The whistle at the fill no longer works either, so they hold their ears up to the vent and stop when they hear it getting close to the top. The tank is 500 gallons. The gauge on the wall has 2 small copper pipes I believe no wider than straws going into it. It is rectangular in shape with a needle from zero to 500 encased in glass. At the bottom right corner of the gauge is a brass plunger, that you pump in and out a few times to move the needle for an accurate reading. The problem is the housing that holds that plunger in place has come loose and it keeps wanting to fall out. Have you seen this type of gauge , and can it be replaced?
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Lp vs Oil
Presently I am trying to make the long term decision/investment of a new boiler and DHW source for my home with CI baseboards. Natural Gas is not available in my area. Propane is. Oil is also. The home has a brand new double bottom 275 oil tank with new lines.
I thought that I had made my decision to install a Viessmann oil boiler and 300 indirect. I feel confident that this is a reliable and efficient setup. But I do find myself questioning if it is worth the extra investment to get propane tank/Tanks to go with a mod/cod boiler instead. The Viessmann oil is a cold start which helps and with an outside reset it will likely be very efficient. I have not yet been convinced that, though the Lp boiler is of greater efficiency, that the fuel itself is. “Pound for pound” the oil we know delivers greater btus. I looked into the on demand benefits of Lp DHW units, and I’m just not convinced of their longevity, not to mention the added maintenance required. So then I said to myself, self![;)]( ";)")
wouldn’t an LP mod/cod boiler with indirect be the most efficient? And thus my question, or almost one. With the cost of leasing propane tanks, or burying my own, be worth the roi of the greater efficiency over the same setup with oil. Seems to me if the Lp is still firing to heat up DHW, is it really that much more efficient than oil cold start that does the same with a “richer” fuel. Say the tank lease for two 250 above ground is 100 a year. Burying my own (1000 gal), which I’m told is really the way to go, would be about a 3g outlay. As I said, I already have an oil tank in near perfect condition. The LP companies in my area seem to be becoming fewer and fewer, which makes me quite leery about becoming slave to their pricing. So I guess the question here, if there is one! Is am I really giving up that much to go with a Viessmann oil boiler with indirect, from a Viessmann mod/con with indirect? Therefore making it worth the switch in fuel source? I’m leaning towards staying with oil, can anybody convince why I shouldn’t? I know maintenance is a factor, but considering the buried tank, there is eventually some with that too. Fortunately venting is not an issue in either case. And while I know enough to get myself into, and out of some trouble, The install being the key to any success of any degree, I’ll be letting the pro handle it.
No longer in the field, I now work in municipal water supply, but I was real happy to remember this site and get my tongue wet with all the heat talk again, really enjoy it! Thanks in advance for any and all responses!
I thought that I had made my decision to install a Viessmann oil boiler and 300 indirect. I feel confident that this is a reliable and efficient setup. But I do find myself questioning if it is worth the extra investment to get propane tank/Tanks to go with a mod/cod boiler instead. The Viessmann oil is a cold start which helps and with an outside reset it will likely be very efficient. I have not yet been convinced that, though the Lp boiler is of greater efficiency, that the fuel itself is. “Pound for pound” the oil we know delivers greater btus. I looked into the on demand benefits of Lp DHW units, and I’m just not convinced of their longevity, not to mention the added maintenance required. So then I said to myself, self
wouldn’t an LP mod/cod boiler with indirect be the most efficient? And thus my question, or almost one. With the cost of leasing propane tanks, or burying my own, be worth the roi of the greater efficiency over the same setup with oil. Seems to me if the Lp is still firing to heat up DHW, is it really that much more efficient than oil cold start that does the same with a “richer” fuel. Say the tank lease for two 250 above ground is 100 a year. Burying my own (1000 gal), which I’m told is really the way to go, would be about a 3g outlay. As I said, I already have an oil tank in near perfect condition. The LP companies in my area seem to be becoming fewer and fewer, which makes me quite leery about becoming slave to their pricing. So I guess the question here, if there is one! Is am I really giving up that much to go with a Viessmann oil boiler with indirect, from a Viessmann mod/con with indirect? Therefore making it worth the switch in fuel source? I’m leaning towards staying with oil, can anybody convince why I shouldn’t? I know maintenance is a factor, but considering the buried tank, there is eventually some with that too. Fortunately venting is not an issue in either case. And while I know enough to get myself into, and out of some trouble, The install being the key to any success of any degree, I’ll be letting the pro handle it. No longer in the field, I now work in municipal water supply, but I was real happy to remember this site and get my tongue wet with all the heat talk again, really enjoy it! Thanks in advance for any and all responses!
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Beckett AFG and TigerLoop problems
At first, if the burner sat idle too long, I could bled the line, restart, and it would fire fine and run until it idled again. I replaced the thermostat because it would turn on the heat unless it was set to 80. Same problem with air in the line. Then it wouldn't refire. First tech spent 3 hours and ended up changing the filter and canister (which I had just done) and got it to refired. It ran for 4 days then shut off and wouldn't refire. Bleeding the line showed a lot of air. Second tech came out and said either the line needed to be replaced or a tigerloop installed. I opted to install it myself. Installed correctly, including bypass plug, ran for 30 minutes. Tried to restart and tiger loop filled with foam. Finally got it to fill with oil and burner fired. Runs for 15-30 minutes, and flame goes out. An hour later the reset light flashes. The flame goes out when the gauges hit a specific point each time but the house has not reached temperature. I included pictures for reference. I am at a loss as to what to the problem is. There's no leaks anywhere that can be seen. The nozzle is clear, the filter is new, the filter gasket and seal are good, the eye is clean.
Right now, the tigerloop is on the crate bc there is not enough give to mount it and I didn't have any more piping on hand. I plan to mount it properly.
Right now, the tigerloop is on the crate bc there is not enough give to mount it and I didn't have any more piping on hand. I plan to mount it properly.
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It's Selfie Thursday, look at our special barometric damper
Dang boiler was pulling an 06, no wonder.
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Removed Baseboards Nozzle PSI Change to Accommodate - Sanity Check
Hello,
We recently completed extensive remodeling that involved removing walls and major kitchen reconfiguration. In the process we removed approximately 12ft of baseboards and one under counter heater (HideAvector HAV-48 - only one speed I assume was high). My understanding is that each ft of baseboard accounts for ~500BTU/hr and @ 170F inlet temp, the HAV-48 would be ~ 4500/BTU/hr. So a total heat load reduction of about 10,500 btu/hr.
Problem is that the burn cycle seem short (~3 minutes once boiler stabilizes and there is still a demand for heat). Notice this mainly in the morning when 1st floor is demanding heat after being turned down over night. Also, more noticeable when outside temps are warmer.
Burner is running a 0.85 nozzle (80A) with oil pressure @ 140psi. Just considering oil psi (and assuming a constant efficiency of 100% (I know this isn't possible - however, I'm just looking at the relative change for different psi settings and assuming the real efficiency will be constant), a 0.85 nozzle @ 140 psi produces 141,400 BTU/hr. Since I have a reduction of heat load of 10,500 BTU/hr then should I reduce the pressure to 125psi (133,000 btu/hr - a reduction of 8400 BTU/hr)? My thinking is that I shouldn't go much lower to account for times when every zone (I have 5 total) are calling for heat or outside temperatures are lower.
Other than the cycle time, system is running well (cleaned, filters changed, nozzle changed and combustion tuned to specification every year).
So, first, is my logic correct and should I change the psi? Should I wait and check heat cycles when there is more demand on the system (e.g., colder temps)? Should I just not worry about it and move on?![:wink:]( ":wink:")
Thanks!
P.S. Please, no snarky comments.![:smile:]( ":smile:")
We recently completed extensive remodeling that involved removing walls and major kitchen reconfiguration. In the process we removed approximately 12ft of baseboards and one under counter heater (HideAvector HAV-48 - only one speed I assume was high). My understanding is that each ft of baseboard accounts for ~500BTU/hr and @ 170F inlet temp, the HAV-48 would be ~ 4500/BTU/hr. So a total heat load reduction of about 10,500 btu/hr.
Problem is that the burn cycle seem short (~3 minutes once boiler stabilizes and there is still a demand for heat). Notice this mainly in the morning when 1st floor is demanding heat after being turned down over night. Also, more noticeable when outside temps are warmer.
Burner is running a 0.85 nozzle (80A) with oil pressure @ 140psi. Just considering oil psi (and assuming a constant efficiency of 100% (I know this isn't possible - however, I'm just looking at the relative change for different psi settings and assuming the real efficiency will be constant), a 0.85 nozzle @ 140 psi produces 141,400 BTU/hr. Since I have a reduction of heat load of 10,500 BTU/hr then should I reduce the pressure to 125psi (133,000 btu/hr - a reduction of 8400 BTU/hr)? My thinking is that I shouldn't go much lower to account for times when every zone (I have 5 total) are calling for heat or outside temperatures are lower.
Other than the cycle time, system is running well (cleaned, filters changed, nozzle changed and combustion tuned to specification every year).
So, first, is my logic correct and should I change the psi? Should I wait and check heat cycles when there is more demand on the system (e.g., colder temps)? Should I just not worry about it and move on?
Thanks!
P.S. Please, no snarky comments.
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High limit keeps tripping on Weil McLain WTGO 7 series 3
I have a forced air on the primary loop then a tee with a Taco hydraulic separator then a pair of baseboard radiators for a cold basement. The boiler was leaking between the sections and was treated with stop leak (bad idea I know now). After that it overshot and tripped the high limit and wouldn't call for heat on the domestic hot water resulting in cold showers, this causing mad wife syndrome, this in turn causing suffering. Had it serviced again, he changed the triple aquastat setting pretty low. Still trips occasionally still cold water sometimes.
So after some research I drained the boiler but not the radiator or baseboard loops, I pulled the DHW coil, descaled it with a CLR and a submersible pump and scrubbed the black Shmoo off the outside and inside of the coils and the well. I refilled it, it leaked, wrapped the o ring in ptfe tape and put ptfe paste on the outside of the face by the studs, no leaks. Didn't break a stud (I used up a lucky from what I've read.)
Now DHW is good but still trips high limit switch. That switch is new BTW. I have started on 180 high 160 low 20 diff, tripped. Went down to 150 high 130 low 10 diff so far so good in person I leave for 5 minutes and it trips. I have only seen it trip one time in person. Before cleaning the DHW it hit 170 on the thermostat turned off and then ran to 220 and started hissing out of the air releases. That time the low temp happened just as the house reached the target temp so there was no load on the system when it fired. Since cleaning it is sitting at high temp limit most of the time. I haven't seen a spike in person but every morning when I wake up it is tripped it if I leave for a few hours it is tripped.
Questions:
Should I drain everything and clean again?
What else can cause the over shoot? I haven't cleaned the flue but it was serviced in Fall.
Should I clean the analogue temp and pressure well?
Could it have too powerful a nozzle or something? 210 MBH on 3000 sq. ft chalet in the snow zone with decent insulation. With no heat overnight 10° it was down from 64° to the 50° in the morning. Manual says 2.0 gpm.
Second Questions:
Should I replace it with the same thing this summer?
One contractor recommended a HTP Phenix or AO Smith Vertex if I switch to propane.
I have calls out to control specialist but they're not here this weekend and it's 10° any help would be appreciated.
So after some research I drained the boiler but not the radiator or baseboard loops, I pulled the DHW coil, descaled it with a CLR and a submersible pump and scrubbed the black Shmoo off the outside and inside of the coils and the well. I refilled it, it leaked, wrapped the o ring in ptfe tape and put ptfe paste on the outside of the face by the studs, no leaks. Didn't break a stud (I used up a lucky from what I've read.)
Now DHW is good but still trips high limit switch. That switch is new BTW. I have started on 180 high 160 low 20 diff, tripped. Went down to 150 high 130 low 10 diff so far so good in person I leave for 5 minutes and it trips. I have only seen it trip one time in person. Before cleaning the DHW it hit 170 on the thermostat turned off and then ran to 220 and started hissing out of the air releases. That time the low temp happened just as the house reached the target temp so there was no load on the system when it fired. Since cleaning it is sitting at high temp limit most of the time. I haven't seen a spike in person but every morning when I wake up it is tripped it if I leave for a few hours it is tripped.
Questions:
Should I drain everything and clean again?
What else can cause the over shoot? I haven't cleaned the flue but it was serviced in Fall.
Should I clean the analogue temp and pressure well?
Could it have too powerful a nozzle or something? 210 MBH on 3000 sq. ft chalet in the snow zone with decent insulation. With no heat overnight 10° it was down from 64° to the 50° in the morning. Manual says 2.0 gpm.
Second Questions:
Should I replace it with the same thing this summer?
One contractor recommended a HTP Phenix or AO Smith Vertex if I switch to propane.
I have calls out to control specialist but they're not here this weekend and it's 10° any help would be appreciated.
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Crown Boiler/Honeywell L7224U Aquastat Problem
I posted this in Domestic Hot Water but I believe it is more suitable for this category.
I have a crown bd-74 boiler. Early in 2016 I replaced the aquastat with the L7224U and I've had no problems until now. My boiler is running at about 120deg. It is cycling on and off, and it is maintaining my home about about 63degF, regardless of how high I turn my thermostat. The display on the aquastat is showing STA 1. There are no error codes. This issue started a couple of days ago. Can someone tell me what this code means, and where to start troubleshooting? Thank you.
I have a crown bd-74 boiler. Early in 2016 I replaced the aquastat with the L7224U and I've had no problems until now. My boiler is running at about 120deg. It is cycling on and off, and it is maintaining my home about about 63degF, regardless of how high I turn my thermostat. The display on the aquastat is showing STA 1. There are no error codes. This issue started a couple of days ago. Can someone tell me what this code means, and where to start troubleshooting? Thank you.
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What to do when heating season is over?
I'm a new home owner and not sure what to do after we no longer use the oil burner for months.
I currently have 1/4 oil left in the tank.
Should it remain low or should I fill it up around June/July when oil prices are lowest?
What do I do with the water in the tank?
What else should I be doing?
Thanks
I currently have 1/4 oil left in the tank.
Should it remain low or should I fill it up around June/July when oil prices are lowest?
What do I do with the water in the tank?
What else should I be doing?
Thanks
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Mobile home furnace
Hello I live in a trailer and the furnace turns on and spills a little diesel out very small amount and u can smell diesel smell for a short time I just replaced the electrodes and nozzle as well as fuel pump and the motor worked fine for a while and then started leaking a little bit when it first turns on any advice on this would be appreciated thanks
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Calculating Boiler Standby Heat Loss
I figured I'd have a go at calculating the standby heat loss of my boiler. I'd appreciate if you guys could take a look and see if I've missed anything or done anything silly:
- First I shut off the boiler and circulation pumps so I'm only measuring the heat loss from the boiler at idle.
- Note that the boiler drops from 187F to 154F over two hours. That's not enough information though 'cause I don't know how much thermal mass that drop has taken place over.
- However I do know that the nozzle is rated at 2.75GPH and there are 138,500 BTUs in a gallon of oil.
- So I turn the boiler back on and measure it takes 6.9 minutes of firing to raise the temp from 154F to 190F. Therefore, given a nozzle at 2.75GPH, 43906 BTUs were added, and that means 1219 BTUs per degree.
- As we said, we know the boiler dropped 33F over 2 hours. Using the BTUs per degree calculated above, it lost 40247 BTUs, which means the BTU loss / hour must be 20123 BTUs / hr.
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Oil Burner Service, Westport ct
Anyone want to look at an oil burner in Westport?
It got wet this morning, then ran and made heat after the water was dealt with,
Then power went out, it ran on generator until overloaded circuit tripped, after reset and now with street power back, there is a new audible whine to the burner operation.
It is making heat.
This is not for me, but for an acquaintance from work.
Acquaintance felt taken advantage of from last guy in home a while back.
I'll have them log in, or pass along contact info..
Anyone?
It got wet this morning, then ran and made heat after the water was dealt with,
Then power went out, it ran on generator until overloaded circuit tripped, after reset and now with street power back, there is a new audible whine to the burner operation.
It is making heat.
This is not for me, but for an acquaintance from work.
Acquaintance felt taken advantage of from last guy in home a while back.
I'll have them log in, or pass along contact info..
Anyone?
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Beckett suntec oil pump seizing up
my suntec oil pump seize up . called my nephew he directed me on how to check blower motor first then the oil pump , pump was seized up and sent me to a supply house for a new one , suntec with solenoid two line system going into top of oil tank. Installed new one and ran fine for 4 days seized up again , removed oil pump and worked it free by moving shaft back and forth on pump , put back together worked fine again for about 4 to 5 days this time seized again . I freed it up and its been 3 days now working fine . There is 3/4 of a tank of oil , new oil filter , new nozzle installed . Checked all oil lines for leaks . We are baffled , anybody out their have this problem or knows what could be causing this to happen any answers would be deeply appreciated. Thank You Gilman
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Orange Powder and Flakes Accumulating in Veissmann Vitorond 100 Oil Boiler Combustion Area
A significant amount of orange powder and flakes is accumulating in the combustion area. It appears that the cast iron is deteriorating. There are no signs of condensation occurring in the heat exchanger above the combustion area. Will this lead to premature heat exchanger failure? What is causing the the cast iron to deteriorate? ![]()
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System 2000 vs. Buderus w/Indirect vs. Trio3 w/Hybrid Electric
I am in the process of replacing the existing heating unit I have, and have three different quotes on potential new systems. Can you all help me determine which might be the best unit to switch over to ?
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Interesting Biasi scenario, older B-3 with Beckett NX
Just curious because I haven't worked on a lot of them and found no info or tech bulletins. We have one at the school and it seems the boiler rating info is wrong, it stated for a Beckett NX in a B-3 use a .55 nozzle at 180PSI, the mas boiler input is .55, that over fires the boiler. As far as I can tell we've always had issues with it, I decided to take it on and found not only was it impossible to get a zero smoke, the CO AF was 374PPM. The chamber had no liner so I start to suspect this is at least partly causing my CO and poor flame issues ( cold fire, impingement), then I found that in the boiler instructions there is listed a chamber liner but no reference as to installing it. Found new boiler literature that now states in a B-3 run a .40 nozzle at 150PSI to get the .55. Only problem is I am not crazy about running anything below a .65 with #2 fuel.
I settled on the .50 at 120PSI and with a new liner and the head set properly I'm happy to report CO AF is 40PPM and steady and the rest is perfect.
Just curious what others have found over the years and if there ever was a tech bulletin, etc regarding this?
Thanks
Gene Bartholomew
I settled on the .50 at 120PSI and with a new liner and the head set properly I'm happy to report CO AF is 40PPM and steady and the rest is perfect.
Just curious what others have found over the years and if there ever was a tech bulletin, etc regarding this?
Thanks
Gene Bartholomew
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