i had a power surge And neither of the units light the green light when calling for heat or if i jump the terminals are the units fried or is relay bad i have power to the units be nothing works
↧
argo 822
↧
Oil Boiler cycling on and off - short cycling?
Hello:
I feel kinda stupid asking, but is the operation of the Weil-McLain boiler that is described below and shown in the linked video normal? Is this “short cycling”?
Aside from the general concept behind their operation, I don't know a great deal about boilers but the motor was changed yesterday and I am wondering if the constant on/off cycling is what caused the old motor to fail (and I'm afraid it could burn out the new one).
Some background: It is a Weil-McLain boiler for a baseboard heating system that heats two zones—upstairs and downstairs (the hot water is on a separate propane system). I noticed a few weeks ago the boiler seemed like it was cycling on and off too often. Then, a few days ago, the boiler stopped working altogether with Red Light on. I did two Resets about 10 minutes apart using the red button but it wouldn't start. So I called a Tech and he said motor was dead and replaced it. But it still seems to me like it's cycling on and off too often.
In the video, the boiler is running when I started recording, then stops, starts, stops and starts again, but multiply this by 50 or so times since it does it throughout the day whenever the t-stat is calling for heat. Sometimes the boiler will run for an extended amount of time without any issue and it will bring the house up to temp. The cycling does seem worse in the morning when the house is cold.
![image]()
![]()
A couple other pieces of info: a new expansion tank was installed in Dec 2017. Also (and this is just annoying but maybe it's related) the downstairs thermostat is way off in terms of the actual temperature in the room. The stat will read 61 when it’s actually 67 or 68 in the room.
I haven't tested this, but I feel like the cycling issue occurs only when the downstairs t-stat is calling for heat. Is it possible the short cycling (if that's even what is happening here) is a result of a defective t-stat calling for heat too often/too little/too sporadically?
I guess I could test this by basically turning the downstairs zone t-stat way down and turn the upstairs t--stat up and see if when the upstairs calls for heat the cycling issue does or does not occur. Maybe I'll try and test this sometime in the next day or two but would like to know, firstly, if what is happening in the video is actually abnormal.
Any thoughts would be much appreciated and please feel free to ask for any clarification since I don’t know what the heck I’m talking about.
Best, James
I feel kinda stupid asking, but is the operation of the Weil-McLain boiler that is described below and shown in the linked video normal? Is this “short cycling”?
Aside from the general concept behind their operation, I don't know a great deal about boilers but the motor was changed yesterday and I am wondering if the constant on/off cycling is what caused the old motor to fail (and I'm afraid it could burn out the new one).
Some background: It is a Weil-McLain boiler for a baseboard heating system that heats two zones—upstairs and downstairs (the hot water is on a separate propane system). I noticed a few weeks ago the boiler seemed like it was cycling on and off too often. Then, a few days ago, the boiler stopped working altogether with Red Light on. I did two Resets about 10 minutes apart using the red button but it wouldn't start. So I called a Tech and he said motor was dead and replaced it. But it still seems to me like it's cycling on and off too often.
In the video, the boiler is running when I started recording, then stops, starts, stops and starts again, but multiply this by 50 or so times since it does it throughout the day whenever the t-stat is calling for heat. Sometimes the boiler will run for an extended amount of time without any issue and it will bring the house up to temp. The cycling does seem worse in the morning when the house is cold.
A couple other pieces of info: a new expansion tank was installed in Dec 2017. Also (and this is just annoying but maybe it's related) the downstairs thermostat is way off in terms of the actual temperature in the room. The stat will read 61 when it’s actually 67 or 68 in the room.
I haven't tested this, but I feel like the cycling issue occurs only when the downstairs t-stat is calling for heat. Is it possible the short cycling (if that's even what is happening here) is a result of a defective t-stat calling for heat too often/too little/too sporadically?
I guess I could test this by basically turning the downstairs zone t-stat way down and turn the upstairs t--stat up and see if when the upstairs calls for heat the cycling issue does or does not occur. Maybe I'll try and test this sometime in the next day or two but would like to know, firstly, if what is happening in the video is actually abnormal.
Any thoughts would be much appreciated and please feel free to ask for any clarification since I don’t know what the heck I’m talking about.
Best, James
↧
↧
How to cold start my furnace to avoid cracks? Oil, forced hot water.
To avoid boiler cracks Is there a special way I need to start my house oil furnace from cold start, about 60 deg F. It's operating fine now , but I'm thinking if loose power from ice storm and it cools to 60 deg.
I'm thinking thermal shock/stress to it's cast iron during heat up.
In past I just turned it on, but now I'm wondering.
Forced hot water
60 year old National Sunray IV , boiler # 5-19A/O/OP , rated 128k BTU/hr 1.6 gal/hr
Has original burner, National -US model NB2-K2, firing rate .85-2.0 gal/hr, 1.1 gal/hr nozzle
Chimney is most 4 stories from cellar floor to top of it
Tankless coil in water jacket
Cast iron baseboards, 1ft tall .
I'm thinking thermal shock/stress to it's cast iron during heat up.
In past I just turned it on, but now I'm wondering.
Forced hot water
60 year old National Sunray IV , boiler # 5-19A/O/OP , rated 128k BTU/hr 1.6 gal/hr
Has original burner, National -US model NB2-K2, firing rate .85-2.0 gal/hr, 1.1 gal/hr nozzle
Chimney is most 4 stories from cellar floor to top of it
Tankless coil in water jacket
Cast iron baseboards, 1ft tall .
↧
Chem Aqua Boil STX Experience
Anyone ever use Chem Aqua Boil STX to clean/treat a cast iron boiler? What was your experience ? Thanks.
↧
How Does Energy Kinetics not lose efficiency to short cycling?
I was checking out Energy Kinetics' website. They've got some really cool technology. But what I can't figure out is how they don't lose a ton of efficiency to short cycling. They claim the highest "real" efficiency, even a bit better than Viessmann and Buderus. With baseboard hot water and a low mass oil boiler, where's all that heat going to go? How do they not lose everything they gained with the low-mass design, outdoor air, insulated boiler, thermal post-purge, etc, etc, back to short cycling? Or cause premature burner wear and failure?
It seems like the perfect oil boiler if there is such a thing... if they configured it with an insulated buffer tank by default or had a modulating burner. Why aren't there modulating burners out there? Gas and pellet boilers do it, wouldn't oil get the same efficiency and comfort benefits?
On the flip side, if EK can avoid losses from short cycling, what is their secret? Why does everyone else care so much about boiler sizing and short cycling if the losses can be avoided?
It seems like the perfect oil boiler if there is such a thing... if they configured it with an insulated buffer tank by default or had a modulating burner. Why aren't there modulating burners out there? Gas and pellet boilers do it, wouldn't oil get the same efficiency and comfort benefits?
On the flip side, if EK can avoid losses from short cycling, what is their secret? Why does everyone else care so much about boiler sizing and short cycling if the losses can be avoided?
↧
↧
Trianco dbc-100 Boiler
Any way to determine the manufacture date of this boiler? Plate on unit does not have a serial number. I'm guessing it's about 30 years old, but not certain. Attached Beckett burner was manufactured in December 1987. We're not original owners. Thank you.
↧
Weird ?
A recent service call I went to the customer claimed that the boiler would fire for about 4-5 seconds then shut off. Shortly later it would come on and run normally. He said it has been happening since it was installed about 5 yrs ago. It is a Pensotti oil boiler with a Riello burner. Hydrolevel Aquastat set to 160 - 180 on the limit. Taco 501 relay. I checked all the wiring for loose wires. Made sure the pump pressure was at 170 psi. Bleed the system for any air in the line. I found nothing wrong. He always had heat and the boiler worked fine the entire time I was there. The customer was curious and so was I. Any ideas out there ???
↧
intermittent lockout on 40 series f5 riello burner
Hey, guys. Hopefully i can get some insight here. My sister's mother in law has a Carrier low boy furnace with a Riello f5 burner. The system was installed about 6 years ago, and I recently started servicing it for her. She says that ever since installed, there has been intermittent issues where the burner goes off on reset. after taking over the service on this about 6 weeks ago, i have noticed that this is the case. This this will run like a top (although not always that way) for weeks on end and then lockout. At this time, I have done a full tune up and combustion test and have everything up to spec per manufacturer. Initially, everything was out of wack. Draft, CO, electrodes, etc. Those issues have all been resolved. A draft inducer fan was installed and the primary control and cad cell have also been replaced. It has been running beautifully for the last three weeks and the other night i received a call that it had gone off on reset again. Any ideas as to what the problem might be??
↧
Oil not being sucked into burner?!
Hello
We recently ran out of oil (judgemental error!) and have waited for three weeks for this delivery thanks to the backlog after the beast from the east lol. We didn't realise at the time as the boiler didn't lock out but boiler has been switched off until the delivery today....
We have had 500l of heating oil delivered, and turned boiler back on. All firing normally but there is about an inch of oil at the end closest to the bleed valve but the rest is air. Have tried bleeding but no movement in the pipe - 1 inch oil level doesn't seem to be getting smaller and oil not being pulled through.
Had a bit of a play with the fire valve(?) - the gold valve at the end of the clear tube that leads to the oil supply. It was set to wide open when we looked at the boiler this evening so we tired closing it. This did draw oil in but also TONNES of air which, when reaching the burner, made a bit of a funny noise and churned out LOADS of white smoke!
Opened up valve again and still no movement on the oil line but the smoke eventually ran clear again.
Anyone got any ideas? Im guessing there is just tonnes of air in the pipe but as the bleed valve doesnt seem to do much i have no idea what to do. Boiler still not locking out despite all my fiddling. Fire valve is 2 months old, burner is 2 years old
Thanks!
We recently ran out of oil (judgemental error!) and have waited for three weeks for this delivery thanks to the backlog after the beast from the east lol. We didn't realise at the time as the boiler didn't lock out but boiler has been switched off until the delivery today....
We have had 500l of heating oil delivered, and turned boiler back on. All firing normally but there is about an inch of oil at the end closest to the bleed valve but the rest is air. Have tried bleeding but no movement in the pipe - 1 inch oil level doesn't seem to be getting smaller and oil not being pulled through.
Had a bit of a play with the fire valve(?) - the gold valve at the end of the clear tube that leads to the oil supply. It was set to wide open when we looked at the boiler this evening so we tired closing it. This did draw oil in but also TONNES of air which, when reaching the burner, made a bit of a funny noise and churned out LOADS of white smoke!
Opened up valve again and still no movement on the oil line but the smoke eventually ran clear again.
Anyone got any ideas? Im guessing there is just tonnes of air in the pipe but as the bleed valve doesnt seem to do much i have no idea what to do. Boiler still not locking out despite all my fiddling. Fire valve is 2 months old, burner is 2 years old
Thanks!
↧
↧
Stripped Bolt on Buderus Boiler
I have a Buderus G215 boiler, oil. The tech who cleaned the boiler stripped the bolt holding the door on. Can they drill and tap a new hole either wider or deeper? Will this cause the boiler to prematurely fail down the road?
↧
Oil furnace efficiency
Can a lower gal/hour nozzle with same degree and shape reduce oil consumption or to rephrase - should a lower gal/hr nozzle be installed at what point is it not efficient and not advisable ?? What else can be done - yes regular maintenance but stepping it up a notch ...? Thanks !
↧
Does anyone have a Crane 70 series manual?
Does anyone out there have a Crane 70 series manual? The specific model is 70-194. PDF is ok, of course. If you've got one you could scan and it's a pain, I'd happily shoot you a couple bucks for your troubles.
Thanks!
Eli
Thanks!
Eli
↧
Best to Sign Annual Oil Contract in June-July?
Looking at annual oil prices, seems lowest price is around June-July every year. Wouldn't it be wise to change from an annual nov to nov period to one that starts in summer? Assuming the oil co would permit you to make that switch. (This would be for a fixed price account.)
↧
↧
Fuel Oil Tank Replacement (275 gal.)
Hello,
I'm going to be replacing my home tank soon. Can anyone recommend a Good Brand & Distributor for a Upgrade ? I see they sell them at the Big box stores, but I don't want Low quality...
I live in central Ct.
Thank You.
I'm going to be replacing my home tank soon. Can anyone recommend a Good Brand & Distributor for a Upgrade ? I see they sell them at the Big box stores, but I don't want Low quality...
I live in central Ct.
Thank You.
↧
need a little help with first company auquatherm low voltage wiring
i installed a 4 ton hydro unit with a hot water coil. the units i usually install already have the circulator pumps in them this one doesn't . i installed a honeywell t6 pro thermostat and wired it as a 2h/2c system 1 transformer. i have circulator tied in to the aquastat on a crown boiler and the circulato wired to the aquastat. when i power up the air handler the circulator shuts off? when i turn off the air handle the pump turns on even when lowering the t-stat temp the air handler doesnt shut off. the air handler i only used green, white and red wires the remainder are capped off. there are two purple that say boiler not sure how or if i should be using them. thanks scott
↧
why boiler doesn't start automatically?
Thanks in advance to anyone who will help me diagnose the issue just recently started happening..
-- sometimes boiler stays off without firing back up even when there is demand for heat (with thermostat requesting heat). I have been pushing the "reset" button to get it firing back up...it works for about a day going on and off as normal, and then stays off...
Any idea what is at issue? where to begin? I don't know much about how the system works but can work with some direction.
Old utica boiler (oil fired water boiler) with a coil. water tank heated via the coil. there is Honeywell R4184 D 1027 (Intermittent Ignition Oil Primary) which has the reset button.
Also there is Model "AFG" Series Burner MP1192
Also Suntec A2VA-7116 ??
I paid a burner guy close to $200 to look at it but when he came it was working as normal and he didn't find anything related to this issue. I am trying to figure this out if I can than paying $135/hr to diagnose this sort of intermittent problem. It seem to happen often enough that there is definitely an issue.
Thank you to anyone who can help out! Cheers!
-- sometimes boiler stays off without firing back up even when there is demand for heat (with thermostat requesting heat). I have been pushing the "reset" button to get it firing back up...it works for about a day going on and off as normal, and then stays off...
Any idea what is at issue? where to begin? I don't know much about how the system works but can work with some direction.
Old utica boiler (oil fired water boiler) with a coil. water tank heated via the coil. there is Honeywell R4184 D 1027 (Intermittent Ignition Oil Primary) which has the reset button.
Also there is Model "AFG" Series Burner MP1192
Also Suntec A2VA-7116 ??
I paid a burner guy close to $200 to look at it but when he came it was working as normal and he didn't find anything related to this issue. I am trying to figure this out if I can than paying $135/hr to diagnose this sort of intermittent problem. It seem to happen often enough that there is definitely an issue.
Thank you to anyone who can help out! Cheers!
↧
Buderus versus System 2000
I am a homeowner in need of a new oil burning boiler. Trying to decide between the Buderus and the Energy Kinetics System 2000. Fairly large home (5,400sq feet). We use oil, not gas, for heating. What would you recommend? I am concerned about the maintenance of the Buderus. I've heard that if you don't get an installer or serviced who knows how to take care of the Buderus, it could become problematic.
↧
↧
Can't adjust low limit on Honeywell AQ2000
Hello, I recently installed a Honewell AQ25A42B Zone controller on my hot water boiler. I like the fact that it has up to a 40 degree high limit differential. However the control isn't operating the way i expected. The instructions state that it will split the differential around the hight limit. So 40 degree diff. with a high limit of 160, I would expect to operate between 140 and 180. But the control is completely ignoring the differential setting. The burner kicks on at 150 and off at 160. The 150 degree setting is the low limit setting default, which is suppose to be adjustable, but it does not come up in the menu. Can anyone familiar with this control tell me if I'm missing something. Thank you
↧
Water in combustion chamber?
Been trying to get the heat working in a foreclosed home I just bought. It has an oil fired Weil Mclain Gold boiler with forced hot water serving baseboard radiators.
I had an HVAC company come out, they installed a new burner (Riello 40 F5) and a new combustion chamber, cleaned everything up, and got the boiler up and running. But I couldn't yet turn the heat on because all the circulators had seized up, as well as the boiler feed valve/PRV. The tech assured me that the boiler itself was running fine, and it was just those parts that needed to be replaced to get the water flowing. And it did seem to be holding its internal temperature around 180 for a few days (with no water circulating, of course).
HVAC company wanted too much money to replace all those parts, and this was getting really expensive, so I decided to do it myself. I powered down the boiler just in case I had to drain it (which I didn't - isolation valves on everything). Fast forward a few hours, and everything is installed, so I fire it up and again and let it rip. Simultaneously three things happen:
I had an HVAC company come out, they installed a new burner (Riello 40 F5) and a new combustion chamber, cleaned everything up, and got the boiler up and running. But I couldn't yet turn the heat on because all the circulators had seized up, as well as the boiler feed valve/PRV. The tech assured me that the boiler itself was running fine, and it was just those parts that needed to be replaced to get the water flowing. And it did seem to be holding its internal temperature around 180 for a few days (with no water circulating, of course).
HVAC company wanted too much money to replace all those parts, and this was getting really expensive, so I decided to do it myself. I powered down the boiler just in case I had to drain it (which I didn't - isolation valves on everything). Fast forward a few hours, and everything is installed, so I fire it up and again and let it rip. Simultaneously three things happen:
- Water starts leaking from one of the flanges of the circulators (gasket fell out while I was installing it)
- I discover a burst in one of the hot water lines that I had previously not seen
- Water starts coming out of the bottom of the burner (!!!)
↧
What is this pink and orange stuff in fouled oil boiler?
I'll admit it, I opened up my first old oil boiler today. What really intrigues me is the pink and orange mess at the bottom of the boiler chamber. What is that?
![]()
![]()
![]()
![]()
![]()
![]()
↧