Quantcast
Channel: Oil Heating — Heating Help: The Wall
Viewing all 1338 articles
Browse latest View live
↧

Need some help... what size are my Oil tanks?

August 6, 2019, 5:19 pm
$
0
0
New to the heating oil scene, just bought a house in July and need to fill the heating oil tanks. Cant seem to find a capacity anywhere on the tank. I did find a manufacture High land Tanks. MH 7573, 12 gauge but an online search came up with nothing... Any help would he appreciated.
↧
Search

Direct Vent Oil Boiler

August 8, 2019, 9:31 am
$
0
0
We do very little with oil anymore, that said a plumber friend asked me for a recommendation. He asked which oil fired direct vent hot water boiler I would recommend. Many years ago we installed a few Weil McLain Ultra oil, but later lost the accounts when the owners moved and the local oil company took over the account. I gather draft is very critical and often causes issues. Can anyone recommend a reliable direct vent oil boiler? Or can you recommend what make and model to stay away from?
↧
↧

Riello 40 F5. Flame

November 27, 2017, 6:38 am
$
0
0
I just serviced my burner last night and have been using the same nozzle and electrodes for years. I haven't done an efficiency test yet or verified pump pressure, but for some reason I wanted to check the flame shape and quality this time and I noticed that around the outside of the flame I could see droplets of fuel hitting the back of the combustion chamber. Is this normal? Nozzle is a Delavan .85x80B per the Burnham/riello combo kit install sheet. Any thoughts would be appreciated.
↧

Help with SR501 / L8124C Wiring

March 12, 2019, 9:37 am
$
0
0
Hey guys, I kept finding this site pop up in all my research over the past few weeks and was hoping to get some advice here. This is my setup in the basement at the moment: I have a Taco SR501 (Zone 2): And an Aquastat L8124C (Zone 1, set to 180/160/10): Originally, the Taco SR501 (as seen in pics) was setup in the traditional manner, but not connected to the boiler or aquastat AT ALL. So the circulation pump (Zone 2) would run totally independently of the boiler water temp, sometimes all night just pushing cold water since it's a cold water start boiler situation (no hot water off of it) I recently referred to the SR501 wiring guide here: http://taco-hvac.com/uploads/FileLibrary/102-169.pdf and have changed the wiring to the alternative wiring setup. I connected my wires to the ZR / ZC on the aquastat. However I have a problem: the SR501 does not work (call the circulation pump, or call for heat) unless I leave the jumper on H and 3. Could this be because there's already a circulator connected to C1? It works exactly how I want it to right now, however my problem is that the Taco SR501 keeps 120v to the aquastat going so the aquastat thinks it's "getting a call for high heat" off of ZR. The circulation pump doesn't run constantly anymore, but the boiler keeps keeping the temperature up above 170 Any ideas? Thanks.
↧

System 2000 heat going to heating zone when hot water zone is calling for heat

August 13, 2019, 11:38 am
$
0
0
Hi all. I have a System2000 model EK-1f. I noticed a while back that when the hot water zone is calling for heat, looking at the control panel light, the hot water and zone 1 heat output lights come on and heat is actually thrown to zone 1 also. The reason I noticed this is I got heat in the zone 1 rooms in the middle of summer. I removed the thrermostat that controls zone 1 to make sure it was not a thermostat issue in zone 1. I have 4 heating zones total. Even worse, after the hot water zone light turns off and the hot water tank is fully satisfied from a temperature standpoint, that zones output light goes off but the zone 1 output light stays on and continues to dump heat into zone one until all the heat is dumped from the boiler. Is this normal that zone one becomes the final dumping point of heat. A picture of the System2000 controller panel is attached. Thanks ahead for your help
↧
↧

what is boiler tank volume on a wgo3 ?

August 14, 2019, 10:29 am
$
0
0
I have a Weil-Mclain oil fired WGO 3 (not the wtgo tankless coil) how much water in gallons resides in this boiler?
↧

Old Boiler won't start

August 16, 2019, 12:28 pm
$
0
0
I apologize in advance because I know nothing about HVAC.

I have a Carlin Model 100crd burner that shut off the other day and now I have a solid red light which indicated lockout. I tried to reset and got more oil incase my gauge was incorrect and then tried to bleed and prime the line. But the burner won't kick on. Anyways. I had no air come out of the line just a steady flow so I don't know what other issues I could have. Resetting wouldn't work and I turned the heat up in the house just to see if I could get it to do anything and still nothing.
↧

Reducing nozzle size 30 yr old PB boiler

August 20, 2019, 4:58 am
$
0
0
I have a 30 year old Peerless WB085-WPCT (WB3) with a DHW coil running a Beckett AFG burner using a 0.85 80A nozzle running at 0.89 gals/hr. A heat load calculation using an online calculator came up with 83,000 Btu s needed @ -10F for our 2100 sq. ft. house in this area of Vermont. I wired in a hour meter to the burner last fall and found that when the outside temperature was @ -2F and the boiler was bring the inside temperature from 65F to 70F the burner ran for 1.15 hrs during a 2 hr. period. From everything I have read the current set up for my boiler is more Btu s than is needed for my house. I want to downsizing the nozzle to 0.75. I called Peerless to find out their recommendation, but they don't have the specs for this boiler seeing that they bought the original company in the early 2000s. I was wondering if anyone has an idea whether I can have my tech put in a 0.75 80A nozzle or do I need a different one. I am asking for help here because most of the people I have talked to in my area seem to want more Btu s than less and change is hard. Thanks for any help.
↧
Search

Help with replacing underground oil supply line

August 26, 2019, 7:40 am
$
0
0
I have an oil supply line (single line) buried in concrete somewhere underneath my basement foundation floor that runs to an outside tank. I'm in the process of finishing the basement, which will involve screwing wall plates and a plywood subfloor into the concrete floor with tapcons, so I'm nervous about hitting the buried line. I also understand that it's a good idea to replace buried lines anyway--it's uncoated as far as I can tell. I'd like to get all of the oil out of the buried line, abandon it in place and run a new line at floor level along the perimeter of the basement. Could anyone advise how difficult a job it is to make the connections to the tank and the filter/burner? I've worked a lot with copper, PVC and PEX on water supply and DWV systems, but I'm worried I'm missing something tricky and there's not a lot of information online about this type of job. Also, how would I remove the oil in the length of the buried line? I assume there is some way to blow it back into the tank or to siphon it into a receptacle.
↧
↧

Cad cell eye

August 28, 2019, 11:45 am
$
0
0
Can anyone tell me what the eye itself is made up of? We recently moved a Miller trailer furnace into place and at start up there was a lot of racket..the noise quit after ten seconds or so...but I notice that the eye is missing. Could the eye have jostled loose and fallen into the motor fin and now just lying on the bottom? Will it do any harm? Please and thank you in advance for your help. The furnace was on it back during transport
↧

Boiler Setup for 5 Zone Baseboard

August 30, 2019, 3:46 am
$
0
0
I'm looking to replace my 40 yr. old Peerless oil fired boiler. My main interest is improving efficiency of the system. Current boiler is 130,000 BTU/hr rated, and cycles frequently based on heat calls from each of the 5 zones. Slant-Fin calc says my heat loss is ~60,000 BTU @ 10F (Maryland) so i'm probably 2X oversized on the boiler and also based on that calc i have 2-3X the required baseboard length in every room except 1 that is a little short (vaulted ceiling, 2 sets of older french doors to exterior and adjacent to un-conditioned garage). I currently have no outdoor reset or any fancy controllers. I did replace the two original 1/4HP circulators with Taco 007e's which are amazing but thats somewhat beside the point. DHW is handled separately although my existing system has a tankless coil. I don't need DHW from the boiler with the new system. After browsing the forum here for a bit it seems like the setup I have is very inefficient, especially in terms of the zones. Ideally (I think) I'd like to see a system where the boiler keeps a hot water buffer tank at a temperature controlled by an outdoor reset and the zones draw from the tank rather than the boiler. Then the boiler only focuses on keeping the tank at the set point. That seems like a reasonable way to increase the system mass sufficiently to reduce the short cycling from randomly timed zone calls. It seems like that is an atypical setup. Does the forum have any thoughts or guidance on how to get a better boiler setup in my case?
↧

Updating aquastat on 2005 wtgo-4 with riello f5 burner

September 6, 2019, 3:57 am
$
0
0
I have a 2005 wtgo-4 oil fired boiler with a old Honeywell l4081b that I want to upgrade to a newer aquastat. What is everyone using these days. I was looking at the hydrolevel 3250 since my system has three separate zones. Two for heating and one for a indirect water tank. Being that the wtgo-4 is supposed to be a cold start boiler. It would make sense to switch to a aquastat with more features. My boiler room stays 90 plus degrees in the summer due to the boiler always maintineing temp just to run the indirect hit water heater. Since the hydrolevel has a option to cold start and not turn on a circulator pump until boiler reaches 120 condensation issues shouldn't be a problem.

I am trying to figure what you guys are using and recommend. Located in long island NY house is 2300 square feet split level with a unheated attached garage for now.
↧

3/8" or 1/2" Oil Supply Line?

September 3, 2019, 10:49 am
$
0
0
I'm replacing an old 330 gallon outdoor tank with a new 275 gallon tank. The current fuel line comes off the tank with 3/8" bare copper fuel line, through about 14" of dirt (about 6-8" deep and then about 6-7 inches to wall) then through a hollow block wall, with hydraulic cement sealing the hole the line enters. The line runs along basement rafters, about 40' between tank and boiler with a Westwood cartridge filter installed. The boiler is a Weil-McLain Gold WTGO circa 1997-98 vintage. I want to run plastic coated fuel line, ideally through some sort of conduit/plastic piping at the wall to protect it from the masonry and dirt, adding a vertical coil outside to allow for any expansion/movement. I've read some recommendations to use a 1/2" line, but everywhere I look tank valves and Westwood fittings are all 3/8". For example standard fuel tank valves are 1/2" x 3/8" and I can only find old style bowl types with 1/2" fittings for industrial uses. What is the advantage to using 1/2" line? Is it possible to find 1/2 x 1/2 valves and filter housings to use 1/2" lines? Or just stick with 3/8" as it necks down anyway?
↧
↧

Winkler boiler with Carlin oil burner not working

September 9, 2019, 12:31 pm
$
0
0
Our oil heat recently stopped working. It's an old system running a Winkler Econo Section Boiler and Carlin Elite Model EZ-1. See attached pictures of setup. The pump, pump screen, nozzle and oil filter were recently replaced, but still no heat. Those repairs were supposed to be preventative maintenance as heat was working prior. Oil tank is underground and I think has plenty of oil based on lowering wooden stick into tank. Unfortunately I don't know the history of the system. ANY suggestions on fixing or upgrading this would be much appreciated.
↧

Riello 40 f5 pump screen cover

September 10, 2019, 6:21 am
$
0
0
I've discovered my pump screen cover has a square gasket. According to the book it should be a oring. Anybody have any ideas why it's a gasket.

Thank you in advance
↧
Search

Boiler quote advice?

September 10, 2019, 12:00 pm
$
0
0
Hi All, I have a 68 series Weil Mclain oil boiler (151 MBH output) that was installed in 1992, and is starting to show its age. The heating is two zones, one for the hot water and one for the house. I'm considering getting it replaced before winter (I live in Maine), and reached out to two companies for quotes. Both are locally owned, fairly small companies. I received quotes for vastly different amounts (~$5000 different), and was wondering if anyone out there could help me make sense of the "better" value. I want to make sure what I put in is going to last, and that it will be easy to maintain in the coming years. Company A: -Replace boiler with Pensotti Quatech DK-2-5 boiler (151 MBH output) - install circulators on supply instead of where they currently are on the return - Install brass circulator flanges with shut offs - Various plumbing to install new boiler Company B: -Replace boiler with Biasi B10/4 (94 MBH output) -various plumbing to install -install circulators on supply instead of return I guess my main question is, is Company A ripping me off, or is Company B a hack job that I'll pay for in the long run? Thank you! Joe
↧

Use shutoff to reduce from two oil tanks to one?

September 10, 2019, 4:37 pm
$
0
0
I have two fuel oil tanks in my basement. One is much older than the other. I plan on replacing them both next summer but, in the mean time, can I close the shutoff on the old one to keep it (nearly) empty while filling the other one through the winter?
↧
↧

Furnace full of water

September 11, 2019, 6:19 pm
$
0
0
I own a mobile home with a Miller Nordyne model CMF65-PO oil furnace which I fuel with kerosene. I’ve owned the home through two heating seasons. I serviced the furnace several times since I’ve owned the home. I’ve never before noticed any water coming out if the burner section of the furnace. When I went to service the furnace for the upcoming heating season I noticed rusty water coming out of the burner combustion section. I removed the Beckett burner to tune it up and I opened the fire box to clean it out. The combustion chamber was full of water up to the burner blast tube. I sucked the water out and removed the combustion chamber which was saturated with water. I found water in the steel hot side of the furnace where the combustion chamber goes. What could be causing this? It seems like way too much water for condensation although I did find the combustion gas exit ports in the back of the furnace to be pretty clogged with rust and debris. Could it be rain water entering through the exhaust stack. Thanks. Ken
↧

Boiler knocking

February 1, 2016, 10:07 am
$
0
0
Utica SFH4150WT oil fired base board..New Honeywell aquastat L7224U..High Limit set 180° with 10° differential...When a zone calls for heat furnace turns on and runs till the 180 limit..At about 175 it starts to make a knocking noise rising in sound and speed and goes on for about 30 seconds after high limit shut off then ceases..This started last year prior to new aquastat.. Noticed the boiler water temp will rise to about 190 in a few minutes and drop as zone uses the water eventually to the 170 start up.. I searched here and gleaned what I could..Went and checked expansion tank for heat and is hot only in top 1/4..Boiler pressure will go from 15 psi to 20 at max temp and then drop down as boiler cools..Oil Service says getting too hot and is boiling [like in an area]? Say to reduce temperature? I did reduce high limit to 175 and seemed to help some, as far as how loud the knocks are..Sorry for long post, tried to give as much info as I could..Thanks, Seb..
↧

Old house. Disconnecting a hot water heating zone

September 12, 2019, 3:30 pm
$
0
0
Hi. I'm new to this forum. I've read some posts on this topic but was hoping to get some advice considering the unique topology of my hot water heating network. I'm going to put in an interior (French) Drain (FD) in my basement and will need to remove the baseboard radiators to do the job right. I'd like to solder caps to the feeds to the basement radiators while doing the FD job and so have to get all the water out of them. The house is old and so each of the three heating zones were plumbed differently. There are no zone valves for any of the three zones and and only one of the zones (C) has a manual shut off valve. Flow Control valves are used on all three zones. I've attached a schematic of this plumbing circuit to talk to the details of this setup for me. I'll also add additional info on those Flow Control valves at the end of this problem description. I'm expecting that I will add manual Shut Off Valves (SOV) to the feed and return side of the basement heating zone ( Zone B ) which I'm looking to disconnect. So I have three areas of concern that I was hoping to get some advice on: 1) Draining the system enough to allow extracting those radiators from Zone B while also putting in those SOV's. After turning off the boiler and letting it cool down, I expect to open the SOV_SYS valve. After that I'm a little unsure. Zone C SOV's will be open. I expect I'd open the FC valves if thats possible. Would I want to close the Expansion tank SOV? 2) If the system is drained I'll solder in the shut off valves for the source and return sides of Zone B (SOV_B_1 and SOV_B_2). Any advice on how to make sure these copper lines are dry enough to solder in some new components? Enabling soldering of caps on the Zone B radiator feeds is a similar concern. 3) Lastly, once I get radiators of Zone B disconnected, and new SOV's in place I'll have to bring the whole system up and bleed it. I've read a few descriptions of how to do this, but in all cases folks were working with SOV's and Drain Valves (DV) on all zones. Zone A in my configuration has neither and I can't add them in because that path uses large steel pipes rather than small copper tubing. I can bleed Zones B & C since at this point both will have Shutoff and Drain valves. While I'm doing this Zone A will be open though. Also, the radiators for Zone A aren't baseboard and have bleeder valves so once everything is up and running I can use those to focus on bleeding that zone. Still, I'm not sure of what my strategy should be here and would appreciate any advice. Here's the additional detail on those Flow Control Valves on the feed side of the zones: Zone A (FC#A) : RA Thrush & Co; #114A Flow Control Valve; Patent Reg 19873 Zone B (FC#B) : RA Thrush ; # CB114 Zone C (FC#C) : ITT Bell & Gosset; Flow Control Valve; SA-3/4 ; Model B19; P/N 107022 ; F00600 on casting And here is the schematic and some pictures of the system. Thanks for any advice. - Tom
↧
Viewing all 1338 articles
Browse latest View live
Search