Hello, hoping you professionals can help me to narrow down my choice on a new boiler for my ~30 year old, 918 sq ft house on Long Island.
I currently have a Utica OBT-3, and while it still works, and I have a service contract with Petro Oil, I think it might be time to consider replacing. The main motivator is the fact that even in summer, the boiler room is always warm due only to the fact that it's maintaining hot water.
I'm maintaining 50 gallons of hot water for 2 people, and the boiler guys I've met don't think it makes sense to just replace the water heater, and I agree.
A Biasi boiler with Riello burner seems to be a frequent recommendation, the 3-pass design and efficiency being the selling points. I'm told that due to the depth requirements of the Biasi, we might want to orient it sideways and then exhaust out at what I assume would be a 90 degree angle.
Is this ok, or are we losing something in that right angle exhaust?
I'm pretty sure that the Riello burner is what I want, no one seems to dispute that they're very good, but I'm trying to narrow down the boiler to the Biasi, Peerless, or Trio, which is supposed to be similar to Biasi but might be shallower.
I also have to consider the possibility that I might need to put a sleeve into the chimney, which I believe the Peerless will not require.
Other info: Taco panel, circulators, Vaughn 35 water tank.
Can you guys help me to narrow down my boiler choices?
Thanks for any info you can provide.
charlie123 is online now Report Post
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Need help narrowing down a boiler
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Honeywell R7284 or Beckett 7505?
I need to change out an old R7184B primary control. Two replacements come up, the Honeywell R7284 or the Beckett 7505. Is any of these better? or more reliable?
Thank you,
Craig
Thank you,
Craig
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Splitting one zone pump into two zones
Need some engineering and design help from the pros out there.
I have a well-mcclain wtgo-4 without a tankless coil. I have three zone pumps. One for a well-mcclain Indirect and two pumps for heating. I have a 2800 square foot split level ranch style house. With a unheated garage. All three taco 007-f5 pumps are controlled by the taco 503 box.
Zone 1 is 74 feet of baseboard and the pipe loop is 125 feet of 3/4 copper with a taco 007-f5 pump
Zone 2 is 52 feet of baseboard and the pipe loop is 90 feet of 3/4 copper through a concrete slab. With a taco 007-f5 pump
Zone 3 is the 29 gallon indirect with 18feet of 1 inch copper. With a taco 007-f5 pump.
Zone 1 is the longest loop and does three bedrooms, the bathroom, the living room the dinning room and the front entrance.
I have access to split this loop into two loops. The question is what would be the best way to do this.
I have come up with a few options that I thought would work.
Option one would be to disconnect the last pump on the manifold and add a tee and add a fourth pump to the manifold.
Option two would be to add 2 zone valve's to zone 1 pump and wire a new controller up to work with that setup.
Option three would be two remove the two heating pumps and install a pump with zone valve's for the heating zones and leave the other pump just for the indirect.
Option 4 would be to remove all three pumps. Install on pump and zone valve's with a new controller for the three heating zones and the indirect water heater.
If you have any other ideas I will gladly appreciate it. Just trying to do this right the first time.
Not sure if I would need a bypass for any of those setups as I don't currently have one. The plumbing and electrical is not a problem but the design, engineering and experience from the people that do it every day would be awesome. My end goal would be to eventually have each bedroom on it's own zone but that probably won't happen for a long time.
Thank you in advance.
I have a well-mcclain wtgo-4 without a tankless coil. I have three zone pumps. One for a well-mcclain Indirect and two pumps for heating. I have a 2800 square foot split level ranch style house. With a unheated garage. All three taco 007-f5 pumps are controlled by the taco 503 box.
Zone 1 is 74 feet of baseboard and the pipe loop is 125 feet of 3/4 copper with a taco 007-f5 pump
Zone 2 is 52 feet of baseboard and the pipe loop is 90 feet of 3/4 copper through a concrete slab. With a taco 007-f5 pump
Zone 3 is the 29 gallon indirect with 18feet of 1 inch copper. With a taco 007-f5 pump.
Zone 1 is the longest loop and does three bedrooms, the bathroom, the living room the dinning room and the front entrance.
I have access to split this loop into two loops. The question is what would be the best way to do this.
I have come up with a few options that I thought would work.
Option one would be to disconnect the last pump on the manifold and add a tee and add a fourth pump to the manifold.
Option two would be to add 2 zone valve's to zone 1 pump and wire a new controller up to work with that setup.
Option three would be two remove the two heating pumps and install a pump with zone valve's for the heating zones and leave the other pump just for the indirect.
Option 4 would be to remove all three pumps. Install on pump and zone valve's with a new controller for the three heating zones and the indirect water heater.
If you have any other ideas I will gladly appreciate it. Just trying to do this right the first time.
Not sure if I would need a bypass for any of those setups as I don't currently have one. The plumbing and electrical is not a problem but the design, engineering and experience from the people that do it every day would be awesome. My end goal would be to eventually have each bedroom on it's own zone but that probably won't happen for a long time.
Thank you in advance.
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Downsizing nozzle on wtgo-4 and riello f5
I have my service tech scheduled for a annual maintenance in two weeks and looking for some advice. I currently have a 2005 well-mcclain wtgo-4 without a tankless coil and a riello 40 f5 burner.
I have a 2800square foot house with a attached unheated garage. This is a split level/raised range style. 2 floors. 1st floor sits on a slab. Garage may get heated one day after it's insulated. The square footage is from wall to wall I did not measure each room individual.
I have three zones. Two for heating and one for a well-mcclain 29 gallon indirect water heater. One zone is 74 feet of baseboard on 2nd floor and the other is 52 feet of baseboard on first floor. This give me roughly 63,000 btu of baseboard. Currently the wtgo-4 is speced out to have a 1.20 nozzel. The btu rating seems to be a lot more then we need. Do you think it's possible to bring it down to the wgo-4 spec of 1.0 nozzel or even smaller.
Figured I would ask the pros on this matter. Thank you in advance for the help.
I have a 2800square foot house with a attached unheated garage. This is a split level/raised range style. 2 floors. 1st floor sits on a slab. Garage may get heated one day after it's insulated. The square footage is from wall to wall I did not measure each room individual.
I have three zones. Two for heating and one for a well-mcclain 29 gallon indirect water heater. One zone is 74 feet of baseboard on 2nd floor and the other is 52 feet of baseboard on first floor. This give me roughly 63,000 btu of baseboard. Currently the wtgo-4 is speced out to have a 1.20 nozzel. The btu rating seems to be a lot more then we need. Do you think it's possible to bring it down to the wgo-4 spec of 1.0 nozzel or even smaller.
Figured I would ask the pros on this matter. Thank you in advance for the help.
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oil burner ignitor: constant, intermittent, interrupted ?
I have put zero thought into it before replacing my oil burner couple years ago, until now.
Seeing the words intermittent and interrupted, regarding burner ignition. Now I think I know what those words mean, per Webster's dictionary. How in the world did those words come to be used to describe (a) the ignitor being on the entire time when the burner is running versus (b) only on for the first few minutes then once burning and sufficient heat established ignitor off ?
Reading the article from fuel oil news: https://fueloilnews.com/2015/12/21/ignition-systems-one-more-time/
Man has gone to the moon, he can go across the Atlantic in three hours and we can microwave a hot dog in a minute but we cannot get a transformer or electronic ignitor to last more than two or three years. What in the blazes is going on here?
Have new Carlin burner now, works fine, I had the understanding that the ignitor was on all the time and made me think what a waste of electricity. Why does it need to be on the whole time? Article suggests older non flame retention style burners had unstable flame == solution is to keep ignitor on entire time. Maybe I had that on the beckett burner on the burnham boiler installed 1987 ? Are newer year 2000+ all "non-constant" ignitions ? Does it depend more on the boiler chamber or the burner head whether or not you can reliably use a non-contanst ignition ?
How do I know or how can i find out if I have a constant ignition system on my new carlin burner, or is it interruped (what I would call intermittent after 30+ years of masterrring the English language) ? Have WGO-3 with carlin @ 1gph.
INTERMITTENT DUTY IGNITION is defined by Underwriters Laboratory (UL) as “ignition by an energy source that is continuously maintained throughout the time the burner is firing.” (UL 296, Paragraph 4.22). In other words, the ignitor is on the whole time the burner is firing.
INTERRUPTED DUTY IGNITION is defined by Underwriters Laboratory (UL) as “an ignition system that is energized each time the main burner is to be fired and de-energized at the end of a timed trial for ignition period or after the main flame is proven to be established.” (UL 296, Paragraph 4.21). In other words, the ignitor comes on to light the flame, and then after the flame is established, the ignitor is turned off and the flame keeps burning.
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9D-M3 Backflow seeping last season
Last season had about 1 to 2 gallons of seepage throughout the season from a 9D-MF backflow valve on a Burnham V75 w/ Beckett AFG fitted with a 0.85 80A nozzle heating FHW @ 15 PSI. The pressure was always stable at 15 PSI. Going to change S1156F and 9D-M3 but wondering if expansion tank should be changed as well and if this could have been the root problem. Checked the tank cold and it had 10 PSI in it but I did get a tiny squirt of water out when it first released, but then expelled dry air after that for a considerable time while I released pressure to about 5 PSI.
Question: Is a little squirt a sign of a failure of the expansion tank or could that just be some condensation on the dry side on a 5 year old tank?
Question: Is a little squirt a sign of a failure of the expansion tank or could that just be some condensation on the dry side on a 5 year old tank?
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Wiring new blower motor
Hello,
I am setting up my new blower motor but want to make sure the wiring is right. The first image is the new motor the other is the old. Does the blue wire go to line 4 and the white goes to line 1 one the new motor?
I am setting up my new blower motor but want to make sure the wiring is right. The first image is the new motor the other is the old. Does the blue wire go to line 4 and the white goes to line 1 one the new motor?
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Pa. Heating oil sulfur content
Did the sulfur content for #2 heating oil go down to 15 ppm? Just curious if the Pa. ruling went into effect.
Thanks
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Repeated "Clicking" at start up
So I have an older oil burning furnace. When the thermostat calls for heat the furnace seems to work as it should, with and initial “click” and the fuel oil is ignited and we are off to the races. Occasionally and becoming more frequent, the “clicking” continues and the heating process sputters and sometimes shuts down.
To those of you in the know does this sound like a transformer or primary control issue? Or could a faulty cad cell cause the same issue?
I have a short video of the furnace, just need to figure out if I can add it to the post.
JJ
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New boiler and indirect HW heater options
I'm in the process of getting estimates on replacing our 30 yr old oil boiler oil fired hot water heater with a new boiler and indirect WH system. Live in VT. House is 30 yr old, 2 story colonial 2,600 sq/ft. Two zones upstairs (1,300 sq/ft) and down stairs (1300 sq/ft). Current boiler is 175,000 BTU Peerless. My problem - I have 3 estimates that are all over the place w/ regard to what size boiler is recommended. One estimate is for 100,000 MBH 4 section Trio w/ Riello burner w/ 41 gal purepro IDWH ($8300); next estimate is for a Buderus G115 5-section 136 MBH w/ F5 Riello burner and 55 gal IBC BTI IDWH ($13,375) and a New Yorker 3-pass 167 MBH w/ Beckett burner and 55 gal IBC BTI IDWH ($13325).
Never purchased a new boiler or HW heater before; all new to me. So,...couple questions. First - I'm assuming the MBHs quoted are the net IBR specs? Second - what is a reasonable size boiler for this size house? Third - do I need to consider any add'l MBH for the IDWH? I've asked a couple friends who have had boiler/ID system replacements and their general gouge for boiler size was 50% of your square footage (in my case, 130,000 MBH). Fourth question - do I need to consider a larger boiler for heating the IDWS? I'm assuming it will be zoned as part of the install and set up as priority zone. I like the Trio - there is a 5 stage P5 Trio with 133,000 net IBR. Thoughts on the Trio system? Is 130,000 MBH about the right size for the house? Do I need to consider additional MBH w/ the IDWH? Thanks.
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No zone valves on my system
I have oil heat with 3 zones/3 thermostats (basement, 1st/2nd floor) using baseboards. The 3 thermostats are 110v line voltage units that operate the 3 circulator pumps. There are no zone valves on this system. I would like to install 3 Nest thermostats to replace these old line voltage units.
My plan is to install three 3 zone valves. I will re-use the current wiring (no plans on running new wires through the walls) to give the Nest's the 24v it needs by having the power supplied by a transformer. The Nest's will operate the zone valves and I will wire the micro switches in the zone valve to the circulator pumps to supply the pumps 110v to operate. Ive seen several systems that use the Nest which don't have a dedicated C wire and they work fine with no power lose over long term periods of non-usage.
Looking for input. Thanks
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oil tank installation
costumer needs oïl tank to be installed 30 inches off the floor .. what are your recomandations
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Do I have Steam or Water Boiler images included
I think it is water can someone please tell me
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Beckett burner losing its prime
I changed out a non functioning Suntec oil pump on a Beckett oil burner last week. I removed the oil line check valve that someone had installed at the burner. Because Suntec say not to use them. This is a one pipe installation. Since then the burner loses its prime. The top of the oil tank is about 4 ft below the oil burner. Is installing a return pipe my best bet? Advice would be greatly appreciated. Thank you. Jim
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Buderus oil boiler problem
I have a buderus g125/be oil boiler. during winter operation, I have no problems with boiler during winter months. But during summer, i use boiler for domestic hot water only. this problem only occurs during summer months. if the boiler goes a long period of time without firing and then has a call, it does not fire and I get a display on logamatic 2107 that states "BURNER ERR". If i push reset button, burner fires and all is fine until it happens again at a later date. It almost seems like it looses its prime but last time tech was here he said prime was fine. direct vent outside in case anyone is wondering.
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Buderus head scracher
hi
I have a buderus g125/be oil boiler. during winter operation, I have no problems with boiler during winter months. But during summer, i use boiler for domestic hot water only. this problem only occurs during summer months. if the boiler goes a long period of time without firing and then has a call, it does not fire and I get a display on logamatic 2107 that states "BURNER ERR". If i push reset button, burner fires and all is fine until it happens again at a later date. It almost seems like it looses its prime but last time tech was here he said prime was fine. direct vent outside in case anyone is wondering.
I have a buderus g125/be oil boiler. during winter operation, I have no problems with boiler during winter months. But during summer, i use boiler for domestic hot water only. this problem only occurs during summer months. if the boiler goes a long period of time without firing and then has a call, it does not fire and I get a display on logamatic 2107 that states "BURNER ERR". If i push reset button, burner fires and all is fine until it happens again at a later date. It almost seems like it looses its prime but last time tech was here he said prime was fine. direct vent outside in case anyone is wondering.
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Missing cad cell
I have a property that I am renovating. It has oil forced air. The system fired up initially and ran well for a while. Then the second time upon attempting to start it would shut down. I checked and noticed that the furnace had no cad cell. Is it possible that the previous owner somehow bypassed the cad cell. Is this possible. I'm thinking of replacing the transformer, cad cell relay and cad cell
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(2) 275 gallon heating oil tanks questions?
New to the forum, and new to owning a home with heating oil tanks.
Have a few questions...
(See attached pic.) Is the tank on the left which has my fill pipe attached supposed to be more full then the tank on the right? The right tank has the vent pipe. The left tank is about 4 inches from the top, I pulled the center plug to see, and the right tanks about 14" lower...
Curious to know, because the right tank has my fuel gauge and its never above 3/4 full even when its topped off. So I assume the left tank is my "main" fill tank and the right tank is the secondary tank?
Both valves seem open on the bottom . And they both tie into the same feed pipe under the tanks to the boiler.
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oil fired boiler...replace or repair
I have an oil fired hot water boiler installed at my vacation home in Maine....I sent the area plumber over to do a cleaning and he said the unit needs to be replaced.....his estimate is over $ included in that is $ in misc parts needed to install unit...the new unit is only $....the difference is labor and new oil tank which he initially said was fine for now.....the chimney is in good shape.....just curious what could possibly cost over $ in misc parts.....I asked him and he said it was only an estimate......how can I be sure unit really needs to be replaced or if it is only in need of repair
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Boiler, Pellet stove, Basement heat
I have an oil-fired boiler and an air handler that supply heat to my first floor. (Zone 1) The boiler also supplies hot water baseboard heat to the second floor. (Zone 2) Both zones also have independent central air with a second air handler in the attic. Both thermostats are Honeywell TH3110D1008. When the temperature in PA can't get out of the 40s, I turn off the t-stat in Zone 1 and use my pellet stove to heat the first floor. I would like to add some heat to my walk-out basement, which stays fairly warm until the temps get down in the 20s or below. I thought of tapping into my duct work and adding 1 or 2 small take-offs. Can I split the t-stat wire to Zone 1 and run a separate t-stat to the basement? Is it that simple? Would I need toggle switches? Or, would it be better to just add some electric baseboard? I just thought the hot air would warm up the area quickly. Thanks for any responses.
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